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Re: Brake Booster Needs Replacement - Any Advice?
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Posted by oldsaab (more from oldsaab) on Wed, 17 Jun 2009 23:42:41 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Brake Booster Needs Replacement - Any Advice?, dave24 [Profile/Gallery] , Wed, 17 Jun 2009 17:12:32
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if you are small built and have thin arms...

you could try it the way I did the last one.

remove the drivers seat.

get some pillows or pads for under your back and head, you will most likely have to take the knee bolster off, need to remove the center console with cubby storage, remove the ashtray and take the four torx out, the center gold hex where the 10mm bolt from the back of the bracket for the ashtray screws in does double duty, it's also a long necked bolt that holds the center of the lower dash in. then each end is held in by a single bolt that is in the space between the door hinge and the divider over the fender, it's usually further hidden behind ziptie bundle of connectors with wires AND a dime size plug of body putty. be careful and don't loose that bolt...

once both ends are out and the center is out it just takes a little coaxing and the entire thing will fall out.

in the engine compartment remove the brake master from the booster in the engine compartment and set aside, I think 11mm flare wrench to remove the hard lines from the master, two nuts (15 or 17 mm maybe?) to allow you to remove the master, don't forget to remove the line from the bottom of the reseviour that goes to the clutch master. (you will have to bleed the brakes AND the clutch after, unless you have an automatic?). you can then withdraw the brake master from the booster, note that there is a piston inside the master, don't let it fall out and also look at the end of it note what the end looks like in case it *does* fall out (they do look different and important to have it oriented correctly... I know... duh...)

Inside, you will need to remove the clip that holds pin through the pedal to the pin to the actuator, it is remarkably like the ones that hold the hatch struts on. it may be confusing as the pedal has brackets on it, ALSO be CAREFUL with the plastic brake light switch... if you do manage to break it there is an ALL METAL one we got at Kragen autoparts, a universal one that matched perfectly...

now the part for skinny arms and patience. also nice to have a helper to give the proper size socket or pickup what you dropped so you don't have to reposition too much. small bright flashlight and you will see the four nuts on the four, basically studs from the booster. It does get easier as you go.

after the four nuts have been removed from the booster, it pulls out towards the engine. It it's not moving, give it a couple of gentle taps with a rubber hammer, it will move. I don't know what tools you have, I liked a 3/8 inch ratchet that I got at autozone, and el cheapo but very unique with a short handle doesn't have click stops but a smooth smaller arc connection. to reverse it you have to take the socket off and push the attachment through to the other side. I have a 1/4 and 3/8 drive and they come in very handy in tight spaces.

remove the booster and replace with the replacment one, put the nuts back on, the clip on the pedal and pin is the hardest part.

suggest you test everything before you put the interior back together AND remember to put that body putty back in, keeps water out of the interior.

REMEMBER you will have to bleed BOTH the clutch AND the brakes... on a 1988 I believe you can use the pump five times and hold, then crack the nipple on the caliper (most likely will see some sputtering) do it about five times on each one or until you don't see sputtering, the brakes should be good and hard when all of the air is gone, and the clutch *may* also work this way too OR do a search on the 12 different ways to bleed a clutch and use the one that seems best to you. Sorry, I use a power bleeder...

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