1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
the relay has maybe three variations, and includes the 9000 as well. interestingly enough, any will replace any, the two mazjor differences are the mounting tab to the mounting bracket and the fact that one is a real deal relay inside, and the other is an electrical switch. The newer one uses the electrical switch, figures right?
It's on the top of the black plastic air distribution unit above the toes of the passengers feet when extended, you can remove the torx at the far right side and flex that entire unit down (the next attachment is behind the center console) and the relay will be screwed OR slipped into with a locking shim, to the gold tone metal bracket that is clipped around that black plastic air dist unit.
Two other items, one is that there is a relay as mentioned before, in the relay area that also owns part of this circuit AND that in the space in front of the drivers door when open where you can see down to the ground over the top of the fender (also where that bolt that holds the knee bolster resides therez) are several wires and connectionns. ONE of them goes to the drivers door and runs the power door locks. sometimes the Saab biodegradable insulation does just that and the wires ground or short and cause issues, so check them too.
Lastly, as another said, if the button push pull (both sides) is not as smooth as it once was... take the door cards off and do the deed to make them smooth again. Why? Sometimes the additional amperage needed to run them hurts the relay and finally kills it. Putting in a fresh(er) one can mask that issue for awhile and then you are back to where you started.
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