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Re: Window Motor and Drive shaft core
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Posted by saab86 [Email] (more from saab86) on Tue, 26 Jan 2010 06:12:09 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Window Motor and Drive shaft core, BHSaab, Mon, 25 Jan 2010 18:10:05
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If anyone tells you that your wonky window motor cannot be rebuilt and must be replaced judge for yourself by taking yours apart - completely. These are really simple devices with very few moving parts.

As our cars get older window motors are more likely to stop working (and become harder to find) but there are a few things you can do to bring them back to operating condition.

I have been faced with a nonfunctional window motor on my front passenger side for about three years now. My previous fix was to whack it with a rubber hammer which would give it about three days of use before it would stop working again.

And after having tried almost every recommendation on this site regarding lubing the winder mechanisms, checking the switchpack and repairing the wiring loom I finally took it to the next stage.

First I swapped the front left with the front right, because the rear windows are used far less often and if the motor does fail I'd prefer to have a functional front window.

Second I took the bad motor and completely stripped it down removing the motor, the gears and the cover plate. This last bit entails following the "FIX MY Saab" website instructions. Four soft metal rivets are drilled out to remove the plate. The electric motor is removed from the gear mechanism after removing two small screws from the gear mechanism body.

Third, brushes can be replaced if necessary but look closely - the armature may only need careful attention. Mine were fine - and this was an original motor that had seen 24 years of use (doors are from an 84).

There are no sealed bearings to replace in the electric motor end so unless the brushes are really really worn your problem probably does not lie there.

Fourth I soaked the entire gear mechanism overnight in varsol - every single bit of grease was removed using a soft brush, qtips and brake cleaner. Its here where the grease or gunk can cause binding. I checked out the nylon gear and it looked fine. The main drive gear however was rusty. It needs to be thoroughly cleaned and the rust removed otherwise the motor could stick again and its probably a sticking gear mechanism (not the brushes) that is the cause of a lot of no-starts.

Fifth, everything can be repackaged using waterproof synthetic grease. Not too heavy or it could cause binding. The plate can be reattached using the old gasket, silcone sealant and small sheet metal screws.


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