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A procedure from memory Posted by Notnoel [Email]  (#23) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Notnoel) on Mon, 1 Feb 2010 13:39:40
In Reply to: Replacing turbo oil feed line, Cliff, Sun, 31 Jan 2010 20:27:49 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I've done this only once and it is a bit of a PITA.
To remove:
Pull the distributor, and remove the heat sheild on top of the turbo (I think you need to do that to get to the two bolts holding the oil supply line in.) But don't undo those two bolts until last. Also remove the top turbo hoses (to intercooler) to get them out of the way. I vaguely recall that you may also want to remove the lower hoses (leading to AMM) as well).
You may want to get a piece of pipe or dowel rod to use to move the heater hoses out of the way (more for the re-installation than the removal. Insert that though the top of the intake and lever the hozes out of the way. I took some rope and tied the lever in position once I got the hoses out of the way.
Unbolt the top "banjo fitting" that sits in the middle of the top of the head. I think it is a 17 mm. Once you locate it, you can reach it with a long and a middle length socket extension (need to be about 18" long) that you snake through the hoses. It is also best to loosen (or remove) the oil filler tube because it is pretty much in the way.
Very important!--once you get the socket/extension onto this bolt, take special notice of the angle the extension makes with respect to the head. lining this bolt up and getting it re-threaded when you put the new one in is the only really frustrating part of this operation (took me 20-30 minutes of trying to get it right)!
Following, the tube from there back toward the distributor, there is (or should be) a small hold down for the tube and it is held in place by a 10 mm nut and bolt. Remove that as well.
Lastly, remove the two bolts that attach to the flange that holds the the oil supply line to the turbo. At this point, the oil line is free and you can extract it by pulling toward the front of the car and rotating it out though the intake manifold.
Pay attention to the motions you used to pull it out, because you'll do the same thing on the way back in. You do NOT want to bend the rplacement in any way (aluminum is brittle!).
Re-installation is pretty much the reverse, but start with the top banjo fitting first. It is really hard to get that big bolt lined up properly through the banjo fitting and into the head. You'll need to feel the bolt into the threads while gently rotating the supply line with your other hand to line up the bolt. You absolutely do not want to cross-thread this thing!!!!
Since you can't get your hand down in there below the intake manifold (unless yours are much, much small than mine, you'll have very little choice, but to use the socket on the extensions. A good trick is to put a nut of the same size into the socket in front of the bolt, so that all of the threads on the bolt are exposed. Put a wad of duct tape, sticky side out or some double-sided foam tape between the nut and the head of the bolt. This effectively makes the socket and extensions act like part of bolt head so you can better manipulate lining the bolt up with the threads.
It's good to have a lot of light and a magnetic pick-up handy in case you loose the bolt and it falls on top of the engine block. Be careful you don't want to loose this bolt. That's a whole lot of additional frustration (ask me how I know).
The rest of the connections are easy. However, make sure you re-attach the 10 mm tie down. If it is not there, the supply line will vibrate and eventually rupture at the right-angle bend just above the turbo, spray oil all over the exhaust manifold and burst into flames while you're driving (again, ask me how I know - I now carry a fire extinguisher in the car).
Best of luck, hope this helps.
posted by 63.139.120...
, Mon, 1 Feb 2010 13:39:40 <-- Viewing This Message
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