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First of all, don't set a deadline for yourself. Just do it in a leisurely manner.
The car is an 89 900T, 160K, here we go:
1. Remove the hood. piece of cake.
2. Take a picture of all the air ducting in front of the engine. Which is really the back of the engine. But in this writing "front" is always front of the car. If you car is not a turbo, much easier. Then remove all of them.
3. Loosen the high voltage coil and set it aside. (I used a ziptie to keep it in the "aside" place.
4. Remove the A/C fan, the one on your right hand side. (you are standing in front of the car, facing the engine.) Just two bolts at the top and the bottom is held in place by a bracket, just pull the unit up. But, first unplug the electric connection at the bottom.
5. Remove the Turbo intercooler. Only one bolt, there are two pins at the bottom to position the unit, just pull the unit up.
6. Remove the air filter housing, just one tiny-winy torax bolt. This is very helpful in doing #7 & #14.
7. Remove the plastic shroud of the clutch. 5 bolts, three of them going longitudinally along the direction of the engine, two transversely at the bottom. Pull the shroud loose and rotate it clockwise until the "mouth" of the shroud is about horizontal and then ease it out. There are a lot of cables, wires in your way; but believe me. This is the easiest way.
8. Dis-engage the clutch and keep it dis-engaged. You need a "spacer tool" (ST for short). Look it up in some sponsor sites ($20) so that you know how it looks like, but don't buy it. Get a #6 bare copper wire for $1.50 (CMyles' suggestion). I wound it around a 6" diameter bottle to make a smooth circle. Have a helper depress the clutch pedal and the ST almost seats itself. If your hydualic is not working, you need to read someone else's posting.
9. Remove the spring clip and the cover in front (same convention) of the primary chain case. This would expose the clutch input shaft.
10. Remove the little plastic propeller at the front of the clutch input shaft by turning counterclockwise, the thread is 8mm.
11. Remove the three bolts of the slave cylinder. They are of internal hex-head. I found that regular hex-heads are much easier to handle. Change them to regular hex heads. Don't disconnect the clutch line unless you are also changing the slave cylinder. I was, because I had just replaced the clutch master cylinder, and had been advised that typically the slave will fail after a new master (is it always true!)
12. Pull out the clutch input shaft by utilizing that 8mm thread that the propeller screwed in. You can screw in a 8mm bolt with a good sized washer and leverage it out with a claw bar. Or you can do it more elegantly (Landjet's suggestion) by using a combination of an 8mm bolt, a large washer and a large-enough socket. The latter rests against the casing around the shaft, the motion of the thread would pull out the shaft. Either way, place a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to protect it.
13. Remove the 6 bolts holding the clutch pressure plate to the flywheel. From now on, you will need to turn the flywheel mucho times to get to the bolts, ALWAYS turn the flywheel COUNTERCLOCKWISE. Also, you'd need to hold the flywheel stationary to loosen or tighten the bolts. Stick the Saab tire iron between the teeth either down-turn or up-turn of the starter housing.
14. Now comes the tricky part, to remove the clutch pressure plate, clutch-disk, throwout bearing and slave cylinder as a package. Very tricky and very frustrating because of those three pins on the flywheel are alway in the way! I somehow succeeded in removing the slave cylinder by itself, after that the clutch removal became nothing. If there is not enough room to remove the slave cylinder by itself, don't struggle. Here is a neat trick (Turbocon86's suggestion), knock out two pins from the backside of the flywheel through a large hole downwards of the starter on the casting. After that, a piece of cake. When come time to install the "package", leave one pin out and re-insert the pin from the front side of the flywheel, don't try to do it through that large hole. I screwed up royally on that operation.
15. If you need to replace the clutch shaft seal (which is mounted at the back-side (convention) of the primary chain casing, get the longest, the thickest flatblade screwdriver money can buy to "pop" it out (study the replacement first to understand its construction). Or, get a "layshaft" (CMyles), which is long, strong and has a "hook" at the end, perfect for this operation. I have never seen one, a new one costs $135. So, you need to dig one out of your indie's trash pile. Don't even try this operation with anything smallish, you'd be sorry.
16. Flywheel resurfacing, get it done, only $40, and they press out the old pilot bearing and press in the new.
17. Many people suggests that as long as you are this far along, replace the rear main seal too. As a 1st timer, my suggestion is this: You should "not" do it unless, A. It is leaking. or B. You have access to a rear main seal press. It is a tricky process that can easily go wrong. I can easily see a 1st timer buying one seal after another and have everyone of them messed up.
18. Installation is reverse.
19. Need to get the spacer tool into the new pressure plate. My replacement plate has a different design from the old. Which is fine except that it needed a smaller diameter spacer tool (which is fine, just re-wound that #6 copper wire and cut off the excess) but also a thicker one (which I did not realize until too late). So, before attempting anything, take measurements of the "package" and the availavle space. Get a #4 wire if necessary.
20. Remember to leave out one flywheel pin for the installation. Remember that the seat of the pin is bigger than the pin holes on the pressure plate, so re-insert the pin before doing any of the 6 bolts.
21. The plastic shroud goes on in reverse. Position it at the right hand side side-ways, with the "mouth" facing the assembly and wiggle, rotate it back in. The only way.
22. The rest is pretty straightforward.
Have fun
posted by 68.111.86...
, Tue, 16 Mar 2010 22:25:00
, Thu, 18 Mar 2010 11:41:01
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