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My issue was that I had to manually keep the switch in the engaged position (whenever giving right or left signals) cause otherwise it'd return to the neutral by itself. To be honest, I even got used to that, but I did know that it wasn't tip top and that was killing me.
The was an additional issue: my switch was a switch only w/o any extra controls e.g. for cruise control function and I wasn't able to find any such stalk on any ebay (.com, .co.uk, .de and so on). I ordered a rebuilt replacement from East Of Sweden (many thanks go to Master Of Gears aka CMyles) - Bob from EOS was even so generous that he provided me with instructions how to do such rebuild if I ever would have to. Not long ago I finally installed that EOS switch...
N.B. (also re 'russian bear'):
You don't have to pull down all the dashboard to remove or install a stalk switch. Just unbolt the lower pillar (two bolts) and pull it down and you'll be able to get to the upper screw that holds the switch. I didn't know that and was almost ready to go with the full dash job (oh, man!..) when was given a heavy hint - moreover, a push - and finally succeeded taking the stalk off.
So I finally installed EOS switch and faced with a couple of... Not issues, but roughness'. The 1st and the most important for me is the sound - it clicks quite ignoble when engaging. The 2nd one (and may be #1 for any other normal human being) is the way it turns on the high-beam. I really have to pull it hard to go to the high-beam or turn in off. Nevertheless I still recommend one going with EOS, just ask'em to be careful with that HB contact (and its springs) and check the shape of the roller groove (below).
The Rebuild
1. Having your stalk switch on a branch be ready for the following tools:
- dremel tool with grinder bit, drill bit, ball-shaped emery bit
- drill with 2.5mm drill
- two of 3mm bolts (ones of countersunk head type are strongly recommended)
- 3mm tap
- grease-cleaner, tweezers and consistent grease (I decided to use some silicone-based grease though common lithium-base grease should work as well)
2. Bore out the tips that hold the plastic cover. Don't be that afraid to accidentally touch that cover (a bit) - its holes will be needed to be bored out too.
http://zigfried.users.photofile.ru/photo/zigfried/3837433/89930422.jpg
3. Gently remove the plastic cover.
4. Take the switch into parts and have them cleaned:
http://zigfried.users.photofile.ru/photo/zigfried/3837433/89930423.jpg
5. Restore that groove that holds the roller when you turn the switch on (engage it for the right or left turn signals)
As was:
http://zigfried.users.photofile.ru/photo/zigfried/3837433/89930424.jpg
As is:
http://zigfried.users.photofile.ru/photo/zigfried/3837433/89930425.jpg
6. Cut the pins that were holding the plastic cover off
7. Using the plastic cover as a template proceed with marks, drill the holes according to the length of your M3 bolts and finally thread the holes.
8. Bore out the holes in the plastic cover according to your bolts (I mean their heads). Ball-shaped emery dremel bit is recommended over common drill.
http://zigfried.users.photofile.ru/photo/zigfried/3837433/89930426.jpg
9. Put all the bits together, apply the grease prepared into sliding couples. There're two different theories re applying a grease to contacts - for this rebuild I decided too keep contacts clean.
Don't go with a threading lock compound for the bolts at least for the 1st attempt - you may notice e.g. malfunction of the plastic tip that returns the switch to neutral when you steer the steering wheel and thus will need to go inside the switch once again (and again, and again..)
And although it's obvious for me, but just in case: you're bolting M3 bolts into aluminium - DO NOT GO MAD, IT'S NOT A WHEEL BOLT. Be very gentle.
Zig
P.S.
The pic below shoes the main idea of this rebuild - the grooves. Refer to the link to see the full album. Don't be afraid of cyrillic, just click on icons to go with mid-sized photos or click on a link below an icon to go with max (max allowed) resolution.
posted by 77.37.1...
rebuild photo guide, in cyrillic but readable
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