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Steering column relacement: Things I learned. LONG Posted by SaabStalker [Email] (#1098) [Profile/Gallery] (more from SaabStalker) on Sun, 29 May 2011 06:46:31 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Swapped an exact year and different model steering column complete. A T went into a non T 94 vert. Bad bearings was the reason.Disconnected neg terminal from battery due to airbag danger. Remove center counsel. Turn key so you can move shift selector if auto box. With standard the shifter is likely out of the way in reverse.Remove the rubber accordian piece behind roof or sun roof switch; using small screw driver to raise and remove said switch, pushing connector into panel. Where the accordian piece was you will see 2 screws. Undo the 2 torque screws from plastic mount tabs, use a magnet on screw driver to not lose screws.Put top of plastic panel back and down popping it from its recessed part of dash.Raise back of plastic counsel a little and start to remove from the left. Take out the 4 screws that hold the plast piece of the counsel to the carpeted piece, remove and put on back seat. Took all of 20 minutes, once I had tools on left floor board. Easiest removal of lower dash panel I ever had, I guess I learned B4 to remove the outer fender wheel 10 mm bolts with a long 1/4 extension and other particulars. Took out the 13 mm behind ash tray duel purpose bolt. Pulled back and down on kick panel after I had removed center counsel. Removed plastic piece that is below turn signal handle by turning steering wheel to get straight shot and removed 2 torque screws. Disconnected 2 torque screws from turn signal/wiper switch cut pull ties from collaspsable steering column web, dropped down turn signal body tied it to left side with a quick tie. Removed 13mm through bolts on lower steering U joint. I removed upper one first.But later learned when installing replacement steering column that the female ends are different; upper one is splined and lower one is a 5 or 6 sided shape.Loosened the 4 12mm steering to body bolts. I attached two bungie cords to the steering wheel and placed the plastic coated hook in the top front pin holes to support the wheel while I removed the 4 12mm bolts supporting the column.I guess in a different model 900 the bungie cord could hook to the sun screen mounts. The steering slide out I removed bungie cords at steering wheel placed removed wheel out side car. Started installing better column. Here I learned the spline at lower shaft did not want to easily slide back in so I removed lower U joint bolt finding it different from the upper female end. Placed U joint on steering shaft, 5 or 6 sided U joint slide back on easily. Slide the two universal joint bolts through but do not tighten.There is 1 nut like spacers that goes between the steering column body and the car frame work on each of the 4 12mm mount bolts. Original had a small gum band type item holding it to the bolt. Small plumbing washers from ACE make good substitutes. I slide in the 5/6 sided lower Ujoint end and slide bolt through then attached bungies again to wheel.Inserted the 4 12mm bolts (I did the ones that went up from the bottom first).When they were almost tight I pushed up on the column and tightened the two that mount horizontally. Here is where I made a mistake that made me remove the kick panel a second time. I did not push the column up enough so that when I had everything back together to include the lower dash kick panel, the little plastic peace that fits below the tunrn signal would not align on the left side with the hole. I test drove the car etc. The next day I wasted an hour trying to get to the upper steering column mount bolts, by removing the turn signal screws and dropping it down as far as it would go. I could access the left upper bolt, but not the right. I took out the kick panel etc and repositioned the steering wheel colun as far up as I could. It all fit together. Put a little black silicone on the heads of the 10mm kick plate to prevent water entry. To keep bolt into socket, use a magnitized socket or some of that black gum like putty to keep bolt in socket. Be sure you have attached electrical fittings (turn signal/wiper switch & air bag) Then reattach battery neg terminal and test B4 signals etc. B4 closing up with the Kick panel, and black turn signal molding. I already had the new bearings for the old steering column, but now to read on not messing up the clock spring.
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