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airbag delete
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Posted by RadioFlyer [Email] (more from RadioFlyer) on Tue, 20 Nov 2012 08:20:13 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: Making one good car out of two and a half bad ones..., Gigantor [Profile/Gallery] , Tue, 20 Nov 2012 06:27:01
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Not sure about the blueprints. MIght comb through the Bentley manual or the blue dealership books if you have them. I have a set for the early 900 '79 to '86 I think. The body was the same as the later c900, so let me see if I can find something for you.

As far as the airbag delete, it's pretty simple. I did one Saturday afternoon on my SPG. The hardest part can be getting the horn to work right. Total it should take only about 3 hours depending on if you can get your horn to work. The rest is very straight forward. For parts, you will need a non-airbag steering wheel, upper steering column, and wiper/signal arm frame, a 4" section of thin electrical wire, a connector to hook your 4" wire to another wire (not a butt-connector, but a parallel connector - they are usually blue), and one female blade connector. Make sure your non-airbag steering wheel has the correct hub for the Saab steering column and should have a wire going through that hub with a little spring-loaded (sprung) metal tab on the bottom that can be pushed in. Make sure it reaches out about 3/4" or more. Less and it will not operate the horn. If your non-airbag wheel is all one-piece, then you should not have any problem.

1. Unplug your battery.
2. Grab your torx set (short handle) and remove the two torx screws holding the airbag to the wheel. It's a larger size torx and you only have to back it out enough to slide the airbag off. When they are loose enough, the airbag comes right out - no adhesive or brackets or anything.
3. Once the airbag is loose, unplug the black horn plug and orange airbag plug and set the airbag aside METAL SIDE DOWN so it doesn't launch a projectile if it happens to go off.
4. Grab a size 21 socket with extension and remove the main steering wheel nut holding the wheel to the column.
5. By hand or with a puller (a puller is best so that you do not damage the clock spring underneath - I bought my 3-arm puller for $13 at harbor freight and it has worked wonders!!!!) pull the wheel off the column (it is just wedged on there if your big nut is gone.
6. Once wheel is off, remove the under-dash kick panel (take out the center console and ash tray, then it is held by three bolts - one in center under ash tray, one on each side on engine bay side of wall just in front of the doors)
7. Cut the zip-ties holding the wiring to the upper steering column and pull the wiring away a little so there is nothing binding the column.
8. Remove the wiper/signal arm frame and let it hang down (no need to unplug completely)
9. Remove the two springs on either side of the steering column down by the U-joint near the brake pedal
10. Remove the bolt holding the upper steering column to the U-joint
11. Remove the six bolts holding the upper steering column to the frame. Two are right in front, 4 more are underneath (have to stick your socket through the cross-members to get them. Can see from underneath). There should be nut-like spacers on the back sides of these bolts. Save those - they will go between the steering column and the frame when you reinstall.
12. Pull the upper steering column out of the U-joint and remove from the car.
13. Replace with a non-airbag upper steering column (reason being that the airbag version will not fit correctly with the clock spring in there, and the horn will not have a horn ring and will not work). Install opposite of removal. One thing to be careful of - the center shaft of the column that slips into the U-joint has a groove cut into it horizontally (you will see it). Make sure this lines up with the bolt holes - the bolt goes through this to lock the steering column shaft from coming disconnected from the U-joint. And make sure the shaft is pushed deep enough in for the bolt to go through. You will know when you have it right because you can pull the steering column up and down and it will tug the U-joint because it is locked in position.
14. Reinstall the two springs and zip-tie the wiring harness to the column as it was before.
15. Replace the wiper/signal stalk frame with one from the non-airbag 900. This is because the airbag version is made to fit the airbag column and will not fit correctly on the non-airbag column. Screw it to the column with stalks installed.
16. Now to wire your horn - the black plug that the horn went to in your old steering wheel has two black wires. One is ground, one goes to the horn relay. You can tell which with a test light. Plug your battery back in and turn the key to the power position. Then with your test light, check the two wires - no light means it is the ground, light means it is the relay. Connect your 4" wire on one end to the relay wire, and the on the other end connect a female blade connector. Stick the female blade connector to the male blade that comes off the steering column on the bottom side right behind the horn ring (horn ring you will see surrounding where the steering wheel connects to the splined shaft - the male blade is on the back side of it on the bottom). It is pretty well hidden, but it's the only one there is. So find it and connect to it.
17. For the horn to work, it needs power and ground. The power is now connected to your horn ring and the ground will be your steering column shaft once the steering wheel is on (they have a plastic thing between them so they do not touch). The power runs up the wire through the steering wheel hub because the sprung metal tab at the base of the steering wheel is always touching the horn ring. Connect that wire to one of your two horn wires (or you may have a momo wheel with only one wire - that connects to the male connector on the back of the horn button itself). The other wire should have a ring connector on it and be sandwiched between the steering wheel and the hub to make the hub the ground since it connects right to the steering column shaft. When you have power and ground connected, your horn should work. If this doesn't make any sense, just look to make a connection between power and ground with the horn buttons in the middle. Power goes from the relay wire to the horn ring to the horn button. Ground goes from the horn button to the steering wheel hub to the steering column shaft. Hook this up however you can, and you're honkin'. If nothing else works, connect an external horn button instead. I had to do this once because the horn buttons on my momo wheel were mangled. So I connected a horn button to the two horn wires until I could figure it out.
18. Connect your steering wheel - make sure it is straight. I usually stick it on as straight as I can but do not tighten it down. Then I go for a brief drive to make sure before readjusting and tightening it down.
19. Once horn is working and wheel is straight, reinstall your kick panel and everything and you should be all good to go!

PM me if you have any questions!



posted by 199.96.119...


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