1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Vik,
it heavily depends on whether you're here in mother Mordor or there over the seas. Other things to affect the price tag are:
- stick (5-speed) vs auto (3-speed)
- turbo vs naturally aspirated engine
- 2.0L NA vs 2.1L NA (the latter has a significantly better performance, but poorer durability)
- factory options installed, e.g.: leather vs velours guts, ATE MkII ABS vs vacuum booster brakes, all those electrical servos for the sunroof, mirrors, windows and other stuff, etc
The main things to check and examine before making the deal:
1. the body
2. the body once again
3. have I said you should check the body first? In a case I have not, here it goes: the body
4. the gearbox
5. the model variant and the factory equipment you do want to be there to be installed: if you want a turbo (and yes, you've got to want the turbo), then you better buy the turbo variant. Yes, na-to-turbo conversion can be done, but it'll cost you lots of stress. If you're like those folks who don't trust ATE MkII (and it's the same ABS which was installed on pre-MkIV 9000's), you'd better off with non-ABS car. Although should you - just like me -prefer lassies to lads and the good ABS-assistance and less probability for intake vacuum leaks, then you should look for the ABS-equipped variant.
But everything is possible and main things first: if you're offered with a C900 with museum-like body and perfect working gearbox (read: recently serviced by CMyles), then it does make sense to buy it and to later equip it to your taste(s).
Good luck,
Zig
posted by 188.134.4...
->Posting last edited on Wed, 4 Sep 2013 07:04:13.
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