1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
![]() | [Main 9000 Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
Two methods Posted by Ari [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: crank pulley removal, munungi, Sun, 24 Mar 2002 04:51:11 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
On the top of the transmission housing, RIGHT where it meets the engine block, there is a thin rectangular slot. This is the slot you look into to time the engine. You will have to push aside some hoses to get a good view, but it IS there. It is NOT the squarish hole with a perforated metal grill over it. As you rotate the engine, you will see various bits move by. At one point there will be a large chunk of metal that has the timing numbers on that. I've had luck wedging a screwdriver in.
Actually, I use the screwdriver only to Tighten the bolt. It usually takes a lot more force to remove the bolt. For this, I use a version of the Townsend method for the 900.
With the car jacked up and well supported, and the right front wheel removed, I start the car and pull the fuel pump fuse. The engine will die. With the fender inner liner off, I stick the proper socket on the pulley bolt, with a big breaker bar hanging down, just in front of the lower A arm for the wheel. Get in, and turn the engine over quickly just once. You should hear a loud WHACK as the breaker bar hits the lower A arm. You pull the fuel pump fuse so that the engine can't start.
Get out, and reseat the socket. Repeat. Eventually the bolt will loosen up, and you can just unscrew it. Important things to know - just give the key a quick turn so you only get a single whack. ALWAYS get out and make sure the socket is properly seated - you don't want to get the socket tilted, or it could damage the bolt head.
It may take 10 or 15 whacks, but the bolt will loosen. It's a quick and dirty impact wrench. I find this method may require getting in and out of the car a bit, but it's a lot easier than trying to lock the flywheel into position, then find the leverage to loosen the bolt, which will probably be in excess of 150 foot-lbs. And just when you're leaning on the bar with all your might, the bolt will loosen, throwing you into the engine. Forget it. Use the engine.
To tighten, I wedge a screwdriver into the timing mark slot. You may have to turn the engine a few times to get a nice chunk of metal. Tightening is much easier.
Good luck!
posted by 140.157....
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |