 |
|
|
1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Hi, Russell. Just replied to your e-mail on this subject.
First, I believe Sachs-Boge shocks are standard on the 9000. That's what was on my '96 Aero. You might want to check with the dealer.
I also included a reply to a similar question (about SD springs and Konis) I was asked a while ago. I've pasted this reply below for the benefit of others on the board (and for review by those others who have done this):
"I cannot think of any reason the SD springs should be much different from
the Abbott springs I fitted, so here goes:
Much of my information was gleaned from the Haynes manual. The
torque setting for the top nut is supplied in the Koni instructions. I
haven't got the other torque settings here, but can look them out for you.
I took notes and photographs, but never got round to writing it up for my
site.
Before you start, you might want to check the two bolts holding each strut
to the hub. On mine, the nuts came off easily, but one bolt on each side
was seized in the strut. Since the Konis are inserts and the same strut
goes back on the car, I took the whole hub off with the strut by unbolting
the lower ball joint and steering joint and undoing the hub nut.
If you're lucky, the front struts will come off easily by unbolting from
the hub and from the top mounting. You'll need to loosen the top nut half
a turn while on the car and for this you need a big Allen key - I think
it's 7mm or 8mm - to hold the centre and a socket to loosen the nut. I got
a key from my local parts shop which had a rubber handle and was obviously
designed for this job - this was the only size they did in that particular
style, so I'm betting it's a standard size for shocks. It was in their
"special tools" section along with ball joint splitters and clutch
alignment tools. I think I used a spark plug socket that had flats on the
outside and I passed the allen key down through the middle and turned the
socket with a spanner. Only loosen it one turn.
The rest of the removal should be fine with the tools you have.
Compress the spring and remove the top mounting and spring.
At the top and bottom of the rubber boot, there is a lug. Mark the
position of this lug on the strut before removing the boot. It needs to be
lined up again when you re-assemble the strut. The top lug lines up, I
think, with a groove in the top mounting.
Following the instructions in the Koni box, after drilling the little hole
in the bottom I got to the part about cutting the top off the strut. I was
rather paranoid about getting this right, so I borrowed a really good
hacksaw (that held the blade nice and straight) and measured the required
depth at points around the strut. Then I made a little groove with the
hacksaw at each point and joined them up to make a big groove all the way
round. Then I went round again making the cut deeper until I had cut
through. I got a perfectly straight edge and when I dropped the Konis in,
they dropped in exactly flush and I was very pleased...
The other method I have heard mentioned is to use a rotary pipe
cutter, but I couldn't find one big enough locally. The strut is about
50mm (2") in diameter, if I remember correctly.
You will need a 14mm drill bit. Make sure you have one that will fit your
chuck (sounds silly, but don't ask me why I mentioned it...)
With the Abbott springs, I didn't need to compress them to fit them. They
are so short that I could put the top mounting on and just pull it down by
tightening the nut. This is the only thing that might be different with
the SD springs.
The top of the strut on the Konis is different from the OEM, and
requires a small socket (11mm, I think) to hold the rod and a box
spanner or socket to tighten the nut. I used a 3/8" drive 11mm socket with
an extension passed down through the box spanner which I seem to remember
was 22mm. Final tightening is supposed to be done on the car. This didn't
work well and in the end, what I did was wrap some cloth around the rod,
clamp it tightly in a vice to stop it turning and torque the nut with a
torque wrench.
Don't forget that the bump stops go in with the writing the right way up
(this looked like the wrong way up to me).
On the rear, it is best to choose a setting for the shocks before you
start, as you need to disconnect them again to adjust them. Mine are set a
bit hard at (I think) about 1-1/2 turns. Perhaps 1 turn would be better
for my purpose, as I almost never have people in the back and I didn't
want too firm a ride. Having the rear set firmer does help reduce
understeer, though. There have been recommendations on SaabNet for the
Koni settings.
Again, try the lower mounting bolts before you start as I've heard they
can seize and are a pig to get out. Mine were fine. The shock holds the
suspension arm up, so support the arm with a jack while undoing the shock
and the only other thing to do is to unclip the cable that runs along the
arm so you can lower the arm and free the spring. Put in the new spring
and jack the arm back into position and refit the shock.
Any more questions, let me know. I'll see if I can dig out the torque
settings for you.
Cheers,
Bill.
P.S. I'm no expert, but I've done a few things on my Aero with the help of
my Haynes manual and the people on SaabNet, and I'm always willing to have
a go."
posted by 161.71.171...
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
