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OK, first, if you are using one piece bushings, you need the tool. I bought one from Sobstory for $50, and for all the stories that you read here about these things, I would not try to deal with a one piece mount without this tool. The other kind of bushing is the split type, where you cut out the old pushing and assemble the new one.
I replaced the bushings on my 91 turbo a/t this spring. I bought Scan-Tech rubber busings. At first, I started with solid rubber on both bushings. The vibration at idle was so intense, I could barely sit in the car. So, I replaced the dog bone bushing with a Scan Tech oem style bushing. The first time I put this bushing in, I did not install it correctly. On the oem style bushings, the open parts should be in line to absorb vibration. I had it about half way, and the vibration was not much better than solid rubber. After I got it installed correctly, vibration was better. Now, I have solid rubber on the fixed bracket and oem style on the dog bone. The vibration is stil a little intense, and much more than it was, but I like the way it puts torque to the wheels. My point is that if you are sensitive to vibration, stick with oem style rather than solid rubber.
I then ordered another oem style bushing for my other 9000. The bushing I got this time was not Scan Tech. This bushing was so soft that it allowed more motor movement than the 9 year old oem bushing I was replacing. I sent that one back and switched it for a scan tech. The vibration on this car (93 5sp non-t) is better than on the other one with the same bushing setup. I understand that the big difference is automatic v. 5 spd.
Jim at Sobstory told me that he has people who like the softer bushing because the other bushings produced too much vibration in their automatics. Personally, I am not sure what the point is in installing a bushing that is too soft when it's brand new. I also had a really difficult time getting that bushing in.
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