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Voltage Regulator and Alternator replacement Procedures
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Posted by W.Saab (more from W.Saab) on Tue, 13 Aug 2002 21:30:14 Share Post by Email
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Saab 9000 1992 2.3 Non-Turbo
Voltage Regulator and Alternator replacement Procedures

The most common Alternator Problem
Voltage Regulator Replacement With the alternator still on the car. (Est. Time 2-3 Hours depending on how mechanical you are and how big around your arms are)
Step 1. Jack up car and secure with jack stands, high enough that you can get under but not to high. You will need to use the entire length of your arm.
Step 2. Carefully remove the O2 Sensor, using a crescent wrench, on the exhaust system (This will give you room to get your arm up to the back of the alternator).
Step 3. There are 2 phillips head screws which hold the Voltage Regulator in place. From under the car, the screw on the right (which is closest to the fire wall is easy to remove). The screw on the left is more difficult to get to. I used a phillips screwdriver tool that looks Kinda like a “z” “Kinda”. This is the only time I have ever used this screwdriver.
Step 4. Once the Screws are out remove the old Voltage Regulator by tilting the bottom edge out. This will allow the bushings to clear.
Step 5. Try to rough up around the left screw hole for this is the negative ground for the Voltage Regulator. I ducted taped a piece of sand paper to the end of a screwdriver.
Step 6. Installing the new Voltage Regulator is tricky because the new bushings are long. They are also spring loaded. Put the bushing end in first and then tilt the V.R. so the bushings move towards the center of the Alternator. This sounds complicated, but it isn’t.
Step 7. Now the tricky part. While pushing the V.R. toward the center of the Alternator start to screw in one of the screws. This is tricky with one hand. Once you get it started, screw it in until almost tight. Then move on to the other screw.
Step 8. Tighten up both screws and reinstall the O2 Sensor on the Exhaust system and you are done.

Alternator replacement Procedures
With the car up on Jack stands and the tire removed
Step 1. Remove Wheel well on passenger side of car. (See instruction for wheel well removal) http://quasimotors.gar.net/
Step 2. Pulley removal (See how to make pulley tool and Pulley picture on the site) http://quasimotors.gar.net/
Step 3. Remove pulley from Alternator, Stationary pulley, and Power steering pump.
Step 4. Using a 5/16th Allen tool (For the bottom Alternator bolt) and 5/16th Allen wrench to remove the top Alternator bolt (Use something to give you length for more power)
Step 5. Turn the Alternator around as best you can and remove the green slide on wire and use a 13 mm socket to remove the red wire connecting nut. (very tight fit, May have to go up from the bottom by the exhaust system to remove the red wire)
Step 6. Use a T-25 Torx to free the bracket holding the bottom power steering hose to the frame (located about 8 -10 in. towards the middle of the car)
Step 7. With the alternator free remove the bracket which holds the water pump. This bracket has Four bolts which attach it to the engine block. 13 mm socket. 3 of the bolts are easy to get to the 4th is a b????.
Step 8. Once all the bolts are out pull the bracket out to expose the alignment pegs and slowly lower the bracket assembly down to the frame.
Step 9. The Alternator can now be removed between the Spring and the Engine. It is a tight fit and may take some finagling.
Step 10. Do everything in reverse order to reassemble. Good Luck!

Hope This can be used W.Saab

posted by 208.149.4...


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