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This is a testing procedure I sent to someone else on the board. This testing procedure will find your problem guaranteed!
Terry,
Thanks for writing, of course I can spend a few minutes trying to help. The first thing I can suggest is to check the battery and alternator systems, I know you just replaced them, however that doesn't mean that either or both are good. If you don't have one, get a digital multimeter, do not use a test light! Hook up the meter to the battery directly, and test the voltage, it should read 11.5 - 12.5 volts (roughly). Next while the meter is still hooked up, start the car. Recheck the voltage at the battery, it should now read 13.5 - 14.5 volts. If it doesn't, the alternator is either bad, or installed improperly. Next with the engine running and the meter still in place turn on the accessories, (lights,ac,etc) and recheck voltage. You should experience some drop, but not much- you should read about 13 - 14 volts. If you're voltage has dropped much below that, then probably you're battery is no good, replace with a known good battery and recheck, even if the battery doesn't fit right and you have to get it back on the neighbors' car before he notices it missing, it's only for testing purposes; no need to buy a new battery yet!
If you're car passes all these tests, then it's on to the fun part! If you're meter is a good one it should have a current draw setting on it. If you don't know how to set it up refer to the owners manuel for the meter, or ask whomever you borrowed it from. Disconnect the negative side of the battery, with your meter on 'dc amp' setting connect the negative lead to the battery somehow (a small pair of vise grips, or a hose clamp, etc.. will suffice). Make sure that the doors are closed (dome lights off, etc...) And the ignition off too! Connect the positive side of the meter to the grounding cable. Your meter will spike in current draw until the computer memories charge back up, watch it for about 30 sec. Provided all your lights are off, etc, including the engine compartment light, you amperage draw should be around 1/4 amp or less (.25amp or 25miliamp). If it is more than that, double check the lights. If the lights are off and you are still drawing more than acceptable current, start pulling fuses! Set up the meter so you can see it through the windshield, get in and close the door, and wait for the lights to go out. Pull the fuses one at a time, and replace until you find the fuse that makes the current meter drop, and VIOLA! you have now found the source of your battery killing current draw.(or at least the fuse for it)
Once you have gotten that far, you can email me on a solution to your problem. This technique will not fail! You will find the problem one way or another. If you have not found the problem with a current draw, then it is again, the battery. Maybe a weak cell that doesn't show up under a stress test (performed earlier), but it is the only thing left. Check with a known good battery. Hook it up and let it sit for a weekend.
Hope this helps,
Steve Stanford
posted by 12.39.9...
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