1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Jan:
Governor seals: The special tools are a 36 mm socket and a inside bearing puller with at least 2" (50 mm) opening at the jaws. I also find an impact wrench usful because there is no easy way to positively lock up an automatic transmission when loosening the large bolt that holds the intermediate gear.
If you've read my earlier postings, you know that the governor is located behind the right (output) intermediate gear and that this gear and its bearing race must be removed to access the governor.
Changing the seals is straightforward, but a bit tricky. There are two rubber square profile o-rings and one steel locking piston ring. The governor should be throughly cleaned when it it removed. I disassemble mine, but all thats realyy necessary is to obtain some pressurized carburettor cleaner and blow out the passages and make sure the valves are free to move.
Replacing the seals is where it gets tricky. Because the rubber seals have to be stretched to fit over the body, once in their grooves, they have to relax for at least 30 min before the governor is replaced. Because they are square cross sectioned it is VERY easy to have them catch and tear on the transmission housing. They should be coated with vaseline and slowly worked in with the twisting motion until the assembly slides in freely.
How much does this job cost? Well I've only done it myself, so I'll deferr to Kappys experience. It isn't a difficult job, but if you are hesitant on your skills and don't have a good working area, I think farming it out is a wise move. I would estimate that the shop will charge about 2 hours and the parts are about $30.
The write up in the SAAB 4:2 transmission manual is great. There is also a video that is available through an address elsewhere on TSN site, but that is for a complete transmission tear down and I find the diagrams in the manual are clearer.
The valve body is the most complicated, and hence most intimidating part of any automatic transmission. SAAB does not even give a breadown of its internal parts in their parts books. It is replaced as a unit from SAAB since they do not train their mechanics on the details of ZF automatic transmission rebuilds. You are much better off obtaining a rebuilt unit from Ericksson's. I have taken mine completely apart with the aid of the manual, but it was nerve wracking, to say the least because of the numbers of springs, valves, constrictors, and check balls - all unlabeled, of course. At one point, I had to go fishing in my solvent bath for sever constrictors that fell out when I separated the upper and lower valve bodies - more grey hair.
The accumulator sping is very easy once you remove the valve body. You do not have to disassemble the valve body to replace it - only undo one cover plate, remove a plunger and replace the spring. The tricky part not removing the valve body (you don't even have to drain the transmission for that). It's replacing the valve body and making sure that the shifting mechanism is engaged properly and the turbo pipe is seated properly. (I have the ZF special tool for this , complements of eBay, but it's not necessary if you are careful tapping the pipe into place symmetrically with a soft-faced small mallet. This is the way I did it my first time and the way Ericksson told me they do it as well.)
In a case like yours, I would try to have the transmission pressure tested before deciding on a course of action. That diagnostic will tell you if the governor, fluid pump, and vlave body are working properly and should only cost about 1 hr (generous) of shop time.
If you need further info, don't hesitate to email me directly. I'm not sure if Scott likes to have long and specific posts like this, but I will answer you either way.
SteveB
posted by 24.58.98...
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