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Sticky door latch/central locking - a long How To Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Sun, 16 Mar 2003 13:31:50
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Driver's door latch issues and fixes-
I just did some work on the car and am in the mood to share. That, and if I write it down, I'll have it again for later.
This addresses two different problems - (1) opening the driver's door from the outside is getting harder and harder, and (2) Central locking from the key doesn't work anymore, but it works fine from inside the car.
The why for #1 - when you pull the outside handle, an arm pulls on a lever inside the door to release the latching mechanism. Over time, play develops in the mechanism and it doesn't pull the release mechanism enough. Fix - slight bend to take up the slack. Here's a test - open the door, and with a screwdriver, push the latch mechanism on the jamb of the door all the way closed - two clicks. Now, pull on the outside handle. The latch should release. Usually, it doesn't on a sticky door. Try it on a good door and you'll see the difference.
The why for #2 - on the back of the lock tumbler there is an arm with a ball and socket joint, just like the lousy one that keeps the hatch from opening occasionally. The ball is on the lock, and the socket connects to an arm that moves the lock actuator, just like the button on the inside. The switch for central locking is inside the actuator. Since this can be a lot of force to move, sometimes the plastic socket pops off the joint. Turning the key still unlocks the door, but the connection to the central locking is flopping around inside the door, doing absolutely no good.
Step 1 - remove inner door panel. This is for cars up to '92 - it may work for newer cars, but I've only done it up to '92. Remove two plastic plugs in door handle, remove torx screws behind. Remove two plastic caps front and rear of map pocket, and torx screws. Remove small torx from plastic reflector at back/rear of door, and reflector. Remove metal bracket and screw behind.
Now, the tricky part - remove mirror control. With a thin screwdriver, GENTLY pry the rear of the control out just enough to get another thin screwdriver in behind. Get the smallest screwdrivers you can - I like to use jeweler's drivers. Slide the driver in behind the plastic flap - there is a release button just to the aft of the little paddle switch (rearmost switch) - gently press with the screwdriver forward while you use your finger to press TOWARDS the DOOR right at the paddle switch - this release the pressure. The switch will come free. Don't force it. Unplug the connector and set the switch aside. Remove screw and bracket holding plastic surround and remove. Remove screw holding panel to door frame.
Slip a stiff putty knife or screwdriver up between the bottom of the panel and the door frame, and pop the panel out. There are pop plastic fasteners along the bottom. When free, push the door panel up and remove.
To remove the door latch - one 10mm screw at the back of the door (latch side), and one at the front of the latch accessed from the inside.
If you're having trouble ONLY with the central locking, pull the door handle out just a little and peek in. Look for a yellow/ivory piece of plastic on the end of a rod. That should go onto the little ball on the lock. If not, put it back. What I do is use a screwdriver to push the latch mechanism on the jamb to latched, then push down the lock on the door. When locked, things line up batter. To guide the socket back onto the ball, I stick a thin rod/screwdriver through the hole in the jamb of the door where the 10mm screw came out. Once it's popped on, reinstall the door panel. Don't forget to unlatch the door before you try and close it.
Having trouble with the door latch? You'll have to remove it. First, pop the socket off the lock ball. Next, with the door handle hanging out just a bit, pull the release from the inside, and wiggle the door handle free. It takes some wiggling.
With the door handle removed, look inside - you'll see a bent metal upright that moves back and forth as you pull the inside release. The lever/roller on the door handle pulls that out to release the door. Take a large needle-nose pliers and bend the upright towards the INSIDE of the car - do it carefully, and don't bend it far - 1/16 - 1/8 of an inch is plenty. You don't want to overstress it. You DON'T want to play with the door handle side - it's a cast piece and will break if you try and bend it.
Another option would be to build up the roller piece on the handle side. Electrical tape might work, but it'll compress over time. Some thin-wall plastic tubing would work, but bending the upright is easier than finding the exact right tubing.
To reinstall the latch, put it back in, but let it hang out slightly. The roller that grabs the upright will be on the wrong side (outside) of the upright, but near the top. Pull the inside release, and wriggle the roller over the upright. Temporarily stick the rear screw in and test it. If it isn't good, remove the latch and bend more (gently!). If it's OK, remove the screw and reattach the central locking socket.
Reassembly is the reverse of removal. Just remember, that when you put the door panel back on, you need to thread the inside door lock button up through the panel.
I hope this will help.
posted by 12.90.1...
, Sun, 16 Mar 2003 13:31:50 <-- Viewing This Message, Sun, 16 Mar 2003 20:33:52
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