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Re: Ari - wire seems good.... Posted by Ari [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: Ari - wire seems good...., Rod M, Tue, 15 Jul 2003 07:50:11 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I would expect the voltage on that wire, with the car off and the wire disconnected from the alternator to be within 0.1 volts of the battery voltage. That's true IF you're using a high impedance meter - like a digital voltmeter or a decent analog meter. There will be some voltage drop due to the resistance of the bulb, but that resistance will only show up if the meter is pulling a load.
The current through that wire is critical to making the alternator work. If there isn't enough current, the field coils won't get enough excitation, and the alternator will never 'come on line.' That's one reason why the BAT dash light bulb is a special, different from the other bulbs. It is possible that you've got a poor connection in there somewhere, possibly even where the bulb plugs in, and that's causing the problem. I'd hate to send you chasing the wiring, as it involves removing the dashboard top, etc.
If the shop didn't do a load test, it's possible that they missed some basic alternator problems. Tough to say. I don't know your economic situation, but personally, I'd go out of my way to swap the alternator in and out too many times. A rebuilt alternator can be had for a little over $100, and if your present alternator is original, I'd replace the alternator given a chance. Even if it turns out to be a wiring problem, you've at least got a fresh alternator.
The stock alternator in that car is 80 amps. I highly recommend the 115A alternator. If you go to the dealer for these parts, you'll be shocked - the 80A is $300, and I actually got a quote for $1,100 for a 115A. That goes beyond shock all the way to humor. I got a Bosch rebuilt 115A from Sobstory last year for $149 (after core); the 80A was $129.
It may be a wiring problem with the bulb, but as I said, that's not one that I'd jump right into. The only alternative I can come up with is to put the old alternator back in, run a wire from the field coil connection on the back of the alternator, get a 1.2W 12volt bulb from a dealer or good autoparts shop, and connect the field coil connection to the positive battery post through the light bulb. If the alternator starts working (voltage output goes up over 13.0 volts), then you know it's a wiring problem to chase down. If not, and the voltage stays low, then it's alternator time. Just a lot of work swapping alternators in and out.
Good luck!
posted by 192.249....
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