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Re: Dogbone bushing.... Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Wed, 22 Oct 2003 07:05:04
In Reply to: Dogbone bushing...., Greg Bake, Wed, 22 Oct 2003 05:42:31 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
The 'dogbone' has one bushing in it; the other bushing is pressed into the bracket on the engine. In my experience, both are usually shot.
A puller won't do you much good. What you need is a metal washer bigger than the metal section of the bushing, but smaller than the inner diameter of the dogbone that the bushing presses into. The tools usually consist of washer/tubing/threaded rod combos that allow you to press the old bushing out, and the new one in. The dogbone comes out and you can replace it on the bench; the one on the engine really has to be done in the engine.
There is a minimal tool method - I've only done this on one bushing, but it should work for both.
I used a Jeweler's saw, but a small hacksaw would work the same. The bushing is a metal tube with rubber inside, and it fits into a metal bracket with a force fit. I stuck the sawblade through the inside of the bushing (at a gap in the rubber), and cut two slots in the outside shell of the bushing, about 1/2 inch apart. I slightly nicked the bracket, but no big deal. I then pried out this 1/2 inch piece, and was able to rig up a press with the right size washer. On the bench it's easy with a vise; in the engine compartment I used a C-clamp. With a chunk out of the bushing, it comes out with some force, but not bad.
The new bushing goes in with a force fit. What I do is (1) make sure the inside surface and edges of the bracket are very smooth - clean up any nicks or gouges with sandpaper/Scotchbrite.
I then took a piece of threaded rod, and stuck it through the bushing, with a nut on either side, and stuck the rod into an electric drill. Wearing a heavy glove, I wrapped the bushing with Scotchbrite, and ran the drill - Basically, I took a few thousandths off the outside of the bushing. Periodically I'd stick it into a bucket of cold water to cool it off, and the water helps the cutting action. I then went down to 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. I did this until it felt like it would just about slide in. I then stuck the bushings into the freezer for an hour. I was able to slide the bushings into the braket. It took a good half-hour of sanding per bushing, but it worked. Even if there were a few thousands' of an inch of play in the bushing, it wouldn't be an issue. And the freezing of the bushing shrinks it. Just try to do it on a dry day - otherwise the frozen bushing will develop condensation/frost on the outside, and that extra water layer actually makes things harder.
As Kappy says, I stick with stock bushings, and that would be extra true with an automatic. It all depends on the car. I've had cars where they were very smooth at idle, and others where stiffer bushings make the steering wheel look like a paint shaker - and you won't know until the bushings are in.
My opinion - just stiffening up the motor mounts by themselves is useless. If you really want to improve things, you need to stiffen up suspension bushings also, or you won't get much effect, except increased harshness. If you're looking for really improved handling, then some extra harshness is acceptable.
And as to replacing the bushings - I don't see front or rear making a difference. Force is transmitted from the engine to the chassis through both bushings in series - order shouldn't matter.
posted by 192.249....
, Wed, 22 Oct 2003 07:05:04 <-- Viewing This Message, Wed, 22 Oct 2003 12:19:52
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