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gearbox lift
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Posted by Mat [Email] (more from Mat) on Sun, 25 Jul 2004 09:07:18 Share Post by Email
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Hello,

During last week I replaced the clutch on my '92 9000CS 2.0 non-turbo. The release bearing was pretty badly worn (that'w why I started the job in the first place) but it seemed wise to replace the complete unit after 210000 km.

To support the engine and lower the gearbox I made a construction that is based on the engine support described by Quasimotor. Instead of a single wooden beam I used two parallel metal tubes (27 and 35 mm diameter, in fact leftovers from plumbing) of 1.5 meter length, mounted 25 cm apart in blocks of wood. I placed the blocks on the fenders, like in Quasimotors engine support tool. I put two cross bars (metal U-profiles) on top of the tubes with 12 mm holes in them. I hooked the engine lifting eye to a 30 cm piece of M12 threaded metal rod, put that through the hole in the metal cross bar and secured it with a nut. For the gearbox I used the same setup, but with an M12-threaded rod of 1 meter (it just fitted under the bonnet with the gearbox in place.)

After moving the gearbox away from the engine, I lowered it by turning the nut over the threaded rod. It took some 10 minutes to lower the gearbox but it gave excellent control over the lowering and lifing of the gearbox, because I could move in all directions: up and down by the nut and in the horizontal plane by moving the cross bar over the two tubes. Absolutely no problem to steer clear from the ABS tubing! Uncomparable to balancing the gearbox on a hydraulic jack, as I did in the past.

For those of you who -like me- do not have access to a hydraulic engine lift, this tool may make the clutch/slave cylinder job a little easier. By the way, I also used two guiding pins (M12 treaded) to align the gearbox with the engine: these tools made the joining a 5 minute job... If anyone is interested, just respond to this post and I can give you a more detailed description.

Mat


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