 |
|
|
1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
 | [Main 9000 Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
Re: How to determine the quality of your engine mounts Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Thu, 23 Sep 2004 06:54:12
In Reply to: How to determine the quality of your engine mounts, Paul Broeckx, Thu, 23 Sep 2004 06:04:26 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
It's normal for a few minor cracks on the upper (dogbone) mount. Major cracks are not a good sign.
As to the lowers, there are indeed three - two on the belt side of the engine, one under the tranny. You can see the tranny mount. It usually doesn't fail. Look for severe cracking in the rubber.
As to the engine mounts. The forward mount is visible with the hood open - look straight down between the engine and the coolant reservoir. You'll see a black rubber circle with a bolt through it. Do you see cracking on the rubber? Is it wet with oil?
With the tires turned hard left, you should be able to see the aft mount - look behind the right front tire, through the hole in the fender inner liner where the steering arm/driveshaft go. You can just see the top of the back mount.
To really test, jack up the car and support. Remove the right front wheel and wheel inner liner. Stick a crowbar between the chassis and mount, and lift slightly. If the rubber moves with the mount, it's OK. (And it's not cracked). If the inside of the mount lifts up and part stays behind, the mount is shot.
The other, simpler method, requires an assistant you trust. This works because you've got an automatic. Block the wheels (all tires on). Start the car, and have your assistant keep their foot firmly on the brake. With the hood open, look down at the forward engine-side motor mount. A flashlight helps. Have the assistant shift into Reverse. No need to add gas. The engine will move slightly. Do you see lots of movement in the lower mount? Have them shift to Drive (again, no gas, and foot firmly on the brake). Do you see the mount lift? If so, a bad mount.
The stock mounts are hydraulic - they are rubber on the outside, with a gooey liquid center. This helps with the damping. They have more movement than 'solid' mounts. Solid mounts, are, well, solid rubber. They cost less, produce less movement, and tend to last longer. They also transmit more vibration. I don't recommend solid mounts unless you're really strapped for cash or are trying to upgrade the rest of the suspension.
Motor mounts die from time and oil. 100K miles shouldn't necessarily kill the mounts. But if you've been dropping oil on them, say from a leaky front seal, that'll wear them out faster.
posted by 192.249....
, Thu, 23 Sep 2004 06:54:12 <-- Viewing This Message, Thu, 23 Sep 2004 08:08:24, Thu, 23 Sep 2004 10:28:39
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
