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Re: Alternator Info
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Posted by Ari [Email] (#2847) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Ari) on Mon, 1 Nov 2004 05:42:56 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Alternator Info, Curt Smith, Fri, 29 Oct 2004 19:09:19
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The brushes are built into the Voltage Regulator, so replacing the VR gets you a new set of brushes at the same time. Rsfeller's alternator bearing failed, but that's pretty rare. I've only had to replace one alternator, and that was because a diode in the diode block failed. If you can get the car to a shop, or even most autoparts stores, they can test the alternator and determine if it's a diode.

Some silly questions - what are the symptoms? Did the BAT light come on? What is the voltage at the battery with the engine running? The very first thing I'd do is peek down between the firewall and intake plenum, and look at the back of the alternator. There is a thin wire, usually green or yellow, going to the back of the alternator. Make sure that wire is still attached, and isn't shorting to ground. I've seen those wire corrode away. If it disconnects from the alternator, you'll get no BAT light (even with the engine off and key ON), and the alternator won't work - you'll just end up with a dead battery. If that wire shorts to ground, you'll get a BAT light all the time, and the alternator won't work.

If that wire is OK, I'd drop in a new VR. It can be done with the alternator in the car. If it turns out it wasn't the VR, then pick up a rebult alternator at any of the vendors that support this BB (see the bottom of the page) - a rebuilt should run about $125 or so. Pull the new VR out of the old alternator and stick in the old one before you send it back as core. Now you've got a spare.

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