1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Hi Saablovers,
I just removed and replaced my 80 amp alternator (generator actually) on my'87 9KT. Thanks to a letter from fellow Saab lover, and by trial and error I came up with the following method of removing the alternator:
The main things I want to point out are to remove the lower bolt first,
gently pry the lower portion of the alternator out of the lower bracket,
then use a box end (closed end) wrench on the upper bolt instead of a ratchet and socket. Using this method, the actual removing of the alternator takes only a few minutes once the preliminary work is done,
and does not require much strength nor patience. These instructions apply to American Saabs, I'm not sure how things are arranged on English or other
right hand driver cars.
Be sure to follow the safety instructions, don't get under the car unless it's very secure, can't move or fall off jack stand and Saab jack. Take your time with the preliminary stuff, if the car falls on you, you won't be very happy, in fact you might not be anymore. Hard way to go. Squish, pop. Ouch Ouch Ouch, don't go there! I'm serious.
Ok, procedure for r and r ing alternator:
1)Set parking brake
2)Place chock blocks on both sides or rear wheel
3)Disconnect battery
4)Unfasten oil fill tube at top so that you can move it aside later if necessary, be gentle, it's plastic
5)Remove plastic hub cap from allow wheel
6)Use foot to slightly loosen or "break" wheel lug nuts with tire iron, turn them counterclockwise
7)Hand retighten wheel lug nuts so that wheel is secured to axle hub
8)Place Saab scissor jack in its proper forward frame fitting, as per Saab Owner's Handbook, on forward passenger side near alternator
9)Raise car by rotating scissor jack handle clockwise until tire is off
the ground about 3/8"
10 Place jack stand under frame at lower forward motor mount
See http://www.quasimotors.com/beltview.htm for illustration of proper
jack stand placement. I used a sturdy 6" long piece of wooden 2x4 between frame and jack stand, to bring it to the right height, but it's not necessary if you have a hydralic scissor jack like in quasimotors' photo
11)Lower Saab scissor jack until most of the weight of the car is
carried by the jack stand
12)Rock the car gently to be sure it's totally secure, you don't want to
get under the car unless you know it's not going to move at all or fall
on you
13)Remove passenger side front wheel
14)Remove fender liner. See http://www.quasimotors.com/fender_liner.htm
15)Disconnect alternator wires (2), I did it from underneath car, others
have written that can be done once the alternator is out of its brackets
15b)Remove serpentine belt. On my car, the belt tensioner is adjusted or
loosened by a single nut on the tensioner, it's a snap, but on newer models or models with the 115 amp alternator,follow instructions at http://quasimotors.com/belt_install.htm
Here's the part that's new to me:
16)From now wheeless wheel well, remove lower alternator bolt first
17)Insert lever such as very large flat screwdriver or straight end of tire
iron between alternator bottom portion and lower bracket mount.
18)Gently pry lower portion of alternator rearward, out of lower bracket, allowing it to pivot or swing on the upper bolt
19)Look at the top of the alternator, and try to see where the upper bolt would be. You will have to remove the upper bolt from under the car, but take a good look at the right hand top of the alternator to see where the top bolt must be. If you rock the bottom of the alternator a bit, you will see where it's pivoting on top. That's where you will find the top bolt once you are under the car.
20)Take a flashlight, a 14mm BOX END WRECH, and get under car on your back
with your legs going toward the front of the car. Look at the back of the
alternator. Look at the bracket that the power steering pump is fastened to. The upper alternator bolt screws into the same bracket, lower down, but you can barely see it because the alternator is in the way. If you use a flashlight you might be able to actually see the bolt head of the alternator upper bolt. Reach up with your left hand and find the alternator
bolt. Once you are sure which bolt holds the alternator, use the box end wrench to remove the bolt, while supporting the alternator with your right
hand and arm. Supporting the alternator is very important so that the
bolt doesn't bind while you unscrew it, and also because once the upper bolt comes out, the alternator is free, lower it to the frame and let it
rest there while you get out from under the car. You're finised with removing the alternator!!! Go to the next step, slide the new one in,
use a lever or a rubber mallet if necessary to position the new alternator
for the bolts, I found that rocking it into place while pressing on it worked fine.
Check condition of serpentine belt while you're changing out your alternator, replace if cracked or dry. You wont want to have to remove
the fender liner again if the belt breaks later.
Also, when I bought my new alternator and serpentine belt from NAPA, it looked right at first, but then I saw that alternator back was 90 degrees counterclockwise from the way my original unit was built. That wouldn't have worked, the wires would have been up against the block, so the store owner had to change it for me. This has happened to me with other makes of car and truck in the past, at other parts dealers, so beware.
That's it,
Happy Saabriding,
MichaelO
posted by 68.6.117...
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