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Re: replacing the alternator and strap
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Posted by Ari [Email] (#2847) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Ari) on Wed, 5 Jan 2005 05:54:41 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: replacing the alternator and strap, usadev, Tue, 4 Jan 2005 20:25:33
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Depending on what the symptoms are, chances are that you DON'T need to replace the alternator. The alternator is a bunch of wire coils and some bearings. The wires usually don't fail, and bearing failures do happen, but are rare.

I'm going to assume that you have a BAT light, the EDU voltage is low (12.6 or less with the engine running), and that you still have a serpentine belt (which drives the alternator).

There are two bits of electronics in the alternator. There is a diode block built into the alternator, and that can lose a diode, and you'll get a BAT light and low voltage. You could disassemble the alternator and replace it, but for that effort, just drop in a rebuilt alternator (about $125 from a BB sponsor). Diagnosing a bad diode requires an oscilloscope, or a shop with an oscilloscope.
The most common failure (you were hoping I'd get to it) is the Voltage Regulator. The VR has the brushes built in. Replace the VR, and you get a new set of brushes.

My recommendation is to first replace the VR with a new (Bosch) unit. If that fixes the problem, great. If you still need to replace the alternator, you can, but keep the new VR as a spare.

The VR bolts to the back of the alternator. Remove the ground cable from the battery. See http://www.quasimotors.com/brushes.htm for good instructions.

If you do need to replace the alternator, you need to jack up and support the right front of the car, and remove the tire and fender inner-liner. That's about 20 minutes. Remove the serpentine belt. Buy a rebuilt alternator from a sponsor. Many rebuilts don't come with a pulley, or the right one, so swap the pulley from your old alternator to the new one.

As to extra parts, you don't need any for the alternator. However, you now have the accessory side of the engine accessable. If the serpentine belt is off, if it's more than a few years old (like 2) replace it. If the tensioner and idler pulleys are more than 40 or 50K miles old, replace them. I like replacing them at 60K, but if everything is accessable not, why not? Inspect the water pump for leaks, the main pulley (harmonic balancer) for degradation of the rubber, the main seal for leaks, and the motor mounts for wear.

As a matter of interest, what are the symptoms that lead you to believe you need a new alternator? What troubleshooting have you done?


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