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With your fuel pump relay unplugged, put your DMM in the 200 ohm resistance range, and put the red probe on the socket terminal with a grey with red tracer stripe on it. Touch the black probe tip to the fuel pump fuse (you can leave it in, so you don't have to worry about which side of the fuse you need. You should see continuity, usually less than 0.7 ohms including test leads resistance.
If you're not sure which of the relay terminals it is, you can play it safe by putting the meter on the voltage reading mode first, and checking that you don't have a battery voltage reading. If you do, then you're on the 12V feed to the relay, rather than the normally open contact side. If you see 0V on it, then switch to ohms and check for continuity.
The fuel pump relay also has another connection to supply power to the heater for the O2 sensor, so you may have to check through a few of the terminals to find the one going to the fuel pump fuse.
If the color of the wire happens to match what's shown on the wiring diagram, then you should be able to find it that way.
Could also be a problem like a spread out contact on the fuel pump relay socket, so take a close look to make sure it didn't get expanded, and therefore not gripping the relay securely. Could be as it heats up, the socket terminal expands, breaking the connection when it gets too wide to touch the relay spade.
If you do see continuity, and the relay terminal looks good, then you'll have to check the red wire for battery voltage at the relay socket terminal. Put the meter in voltage mode, black probe on a ground point like a screw connected to to the chassis, and red probe on the terminal. You should see battery voltage whether the key is on or off there.
Correct the problems in the wiring if you find them, and hopefully that'll take care of it.
posted by 68.237.106...
, Tue, 8 Feb 2005 07:22:33
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