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More tests Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Mon, 11 Apr 2005 05:35:03
In Reply to: Please Help almost there Ari, Brian Kishel, Fri, 8 Apr 2005 21:14:49 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
First, on the radiator fan - the fan thermoswitch is on the lower right-hand side of the radiator. It should have three wires coming out. If I remember right, you've got a 92 N/A, so it should have the two-speed fan (large gold-colored resistor on fan), so it has the three-wire switch. There should be three wires - blue, blue-white, and black. Black is ground, or should be. If you connect the blue wire to ground, the fan should kick on. That's the low-speed connection. Don't try the blue-white wire - that's the high speed. If you try and take the fan from off to high-speed in one step, it'll blow the fuse. I believe that the switch has a connector on it, pigtailed about a foot away. If you can check the connections at the connector, it'll be easier.
It may be the switch, but I'd also make sure the radiator is working. Again, I assume that you are overheating only after prolonged idling. My concern is that the radiator may be partially blocked, and that would cause overheating sooner, and might explain why the fan won't come on. The two-speed fan switch has two different switches in it, one at 90C and one at 100C. So even if the 90C didn't work, I'd expect you'd see the 100 kick in. Unless the ground wire is off, at least one should try and work. So at a minimum, when you think the radiator is hot enough, feel the radiator (carefully! the turbo should be toasty, too!) and see if it is hot around that thermoswitch. I wouldn't bother to test it - if I could make the fan work by connecting up the wires right, I'd assume the switch is bad, and just buy another one. With a cold radiator (so it isn't pressurized), you can do a quick swap - unscrew the old one, and with the new one on hand, slap it in. You'll lose a little coolant, but you don't have to drain the system.
Running the fan all the time isn't bad, but I'd try and get that working. The lifetime of the fan will be adversely impacted, and the fan pulls a lot of power - more strain on the alternator.
As to the engine dying, yes, that does point at the #4 injector. But one big question - what do the spark plugs look like? Other than making sure they are in good shape, gapped properly, and the exact right NGK's specified in the manual. Do you see signs of running lean or rich? Does the #4 look different from the rest? If the #4 looks much different, it could be a sticky injector. Since the engine didn't die, it might be sticking open, and running rich. A solution might be to run a bottle of injector cleaner through. But check those plugs - they live in the engine, and they'll tell a story.
To get this straight, it won't idle after 10 minutes, but you can drive it around just fine - just don't let the revs drop. That might be a few things, but the first thing that comes to mind is a vacuum leak. Check all hoses, even on the bottom, for cracks. Pop the right front turn signal off, and check the hoses into the charcoal canister - make sure the hoses haven fallen off the nipples. Check the rubber grommet where the fat hose comes into the valve cover.
But the key to where to go next is what the plugs tell you.
posted by 192.249....
, Mon, 11 Apr 2005 05:35:03 <-- Viewing This Message
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