1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Couple of details that are not 100% correct.
But before you pull the dash top and start dealing with replacing instrument bulbs, I'd still say you've likely got a headlight relay issue, as it relates to the high-beam indicator question.
As for the removal process, I've added my notes below in ALL CAPS.
--Peter
"1. Remove the felt trim on the front pillars. There are three clips inside. Pull up and toward you sitting in the front seat.
BE GENTLE! THESE A-PILLAR TRIM BITS ARE FRAGILE. START WITH THE TOP-MOST CLIP, AND AS IT SLIDES OUT, MOVE YOUR HAND UNDER THE TRIM AND DOWN TO THE NEXT CLIP. MAINLY, JUST DON'T TRY TO PULL THE TRIM PANEL OUT FROM THE TOP.
2. Each speaker grill has one exposed screw on the top and one on the side with the door wide open.
TWO SIDE SCREWS, ONE ON THE TOP.
3. After the speaker grill is removed, there is a small bolt near the windshiel and a screw near the vent outlet.
CORRECT. THERE'S ALSO ANOTHER SCREW TO REMOVE BELOW WHERE THE SPEAKER GRILL WAS. SAME THING ON BOTH SIDES.
4. There are two more screws. One on the front edge to the right from the center of the instrument cluster, another behind the plug that says SRS.
I'D REMOVE THAT ONE SCREW ABOVE THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER LAST - IT'S TINY, AND IF YOU LOSE IT, IT MAY FALL DOWN BEHIND THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER, AND GOOD LUCK FINDING IT THEN. ALSO, VERY IMPORTANT, WHEN RE-ASSEMBLING, DO THIS SCREW FIRST, SO YOU CAN AIM IT AND HOLD IT. PUT IT IN LAST, AND IT'S A CRAP SHOOT TO GET IT INTO ITS HOLE WITHOUT DROPPING IT BEHIND THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER.
I HAVE A '93 AERO, SO IN MINE, THE OTHER SCREW IS BEHIND A RUBBER CAP BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX DOOR.
5. After performing these steps, you can lift the panel up to look under. A plastic coated steel cable is holding the panel with two (or three) clips. Unhook the clips. Also carefully undo the black dome sensor to remove the dashboard top.
THREE CLIPS HOLDING THIS CABLE TO THE BASE OF THE DASH TOP. DO BE CAREFUL IN SLIDING THE CABLE OUT OF THESE CLIPS. SOMETIMES THE CLIPS CAN GET RIPPED OUT FROM THE DASH.
AS FOR THE SENSOR, WHEN YOU LIFT UP THE DASH, THE DOME PART WILL STAY WITH THE DASH, AND THE SENSOR MODULE SEPARATES. JUST REMEMBER WHEN YOU PUT THE DASH TOP BACK, THE SENSOR NEEDS TO BE SECURED UNDER THE METAL CLIP THAT ALIGNS IT UNDER THE DOME. YOU'LL SEE WHAT I MEAN WHEN YOU'RE UNDER THERE.
VERY, VERY IMPORTANT: IF YOU DECIDE TO REMOVE THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER, YOU MUST, MUST, MUST DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST (I LIKE TO DO THAT AND LET THE CAR SIT 30 MINUTES). IF YOU DON'T DO THIS, YOU'LL TRIGGER THE SRS WARNING LIGHT, AND THE ONLY WAY TO TURN IT OFF IS TO GET TO A STEALER OR SAAB INDIE - IT CAN ONLY BE RESET WITH AN ISAT OR TECH II.
Good luck!
--Peter Ingram
'93 Aero 5 spd., 156k mi., all redone but never, ever, ever finished
posted by 24.99.152...
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |