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Re: Fuel gauge sender failing? Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Mon, 10 Apr 2006 05:50:15
In Reply to: Fuel gauge sender failing?, LeonB, Sun, 9 Apr 2006 10:41:09 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I doubt the sender float is stuck. It is, after all, a float. It sits at the level of the fuel even with the engine off. It wouldn't suddenly sink, then somehow resurface. A sudden drop to zero fuel and the low fuel light coming on tells me you have an open circuit.
Now, that open circuit could be in the fuel sender element, the wires leading from the fuel sender to the EDU, or internal to the EDU (which drives the fuel gauge). If it's in the sender element, you'll need to replace the sender.
The only way I can think of to troubleshoot it is somewhat involved. I would disconnect connector from the fuel pump, and with an ohm meter, measure the fuel sender resistance. I don't know the normal resistance, but some poking around shows it may be as low as 20-40 ohms with a full tank - higher with a lower fuel level, but probably not much higher than about 2K or so. Replace the connector, and drive the car around until the tank level drops - then stop the car, pull off the connector, and measure the resistance. If it's open, the problem is the sender. If it isn't an open, replace the connector and see if the problem still exists - if it does, good. If it has disappeard, then things are still open.
To isolate it to the rest of the system could be very hard. I'd suspect a bad connection at the EDU. The EDU is a circuit board that sits in a connector - you'd need to reseat that.
As to the fuel pump O-ring repair - I echo yaofeng on this. To replace the O-ring, you need to pull the pump all the way out. No way to do that with the fuel lines in place. You'll just break them. Having replaced fuel pumps in the past, I can say that I've had good luck with removing the fuel barbs, but it took care. I squirted them with WD-40 to lube up the O-rings in the barbs nicely. I used some heavy carpet thread to tie back the plastic tabs that keep the barbs from coming up. I then took lots of time to take the barbs out - a twisting motion while pulling up, grabbing right at the part of the barb that is vertical. Twisting while applying vertical pull, slow and gentle. Worked fine.
posted by 192.249....
, Mon, 10 Apr 2006 05:50:15 <-- Viewing This Message, Mon, 10 Apr 2006 09:54:04
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