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Now that I have round tires instead of the lumpy squarish junk that was on there, it rolls pretty smooth. That front end wiggle I had sweated so much about is completly gone. Thus far in dry weather, the Kuhmo ASX is a good tire, well worth the already low price.
I still have a few issues that stand out, creaky ball joints and lowish kinda soft brake pedal. I figure ball joints and rotors/pads should fix that. I know the rear rotors are thinner than they should be. I bled and bled.
The hooter valve. At higher RPM shifts, it does not make a whoosh sound like at lower RPM's. It's almost, well, a honk maybe? It's very brief.
I assume this is pretty normal, but figured for $25 I'll replace it anyway.
Is the upgraded one worth the money?
The trans, while shifting very well, is noisy as heck. You can heat syncros spinning up and down, and the gears themselves when your off throttle for instance. Is this par for the course? I've just got 10w40 oil in it, nothing special. I've read a million post about what to use and what not to. Best I can tell Honda MTL is a good bet, but is it better than regular oil I wonder? Read: Is it worth the mess to change it?
Slowing down, there is a, let's see, a hmmmmm sound that decreases in tone as you get slower till you stop. I don't think it's tires, but it could be some odd harmonic from the weight being thrown foreward maybe. I've really not had enough time to fiddle with it. It just occured to me I'd like to put it in nuetral at 55mph and see if/when it comes on. Sound famalier to anyone? I know I've heard it on cars before.
You can definantly feel those poly and solid mounts. It's not objectionable at all really, but it's there. I can imagine a lot of 9K drives would not be happy with it.
Power is reasonably good, boost still only get's to the very slightest edge of the red and then backs off, and sometimes it will just hit the end of the yellow and kinda linger there, again I need more observation time. Running premium fuel. Have NOT set base boost since I opened the exhaust and intake some, might need to do that. It comes on really good from 2500 or so till 4500, I assume the APC is cutting boost noticably at 4500 and up. If it would keep what it has at 3500 up till 5500, it'd be a lot more natural feeling. If you can call any turbo 4 banger natural feeling. Modded APC in my future perhaps.
The funky cold start is still present, BUT, it did start perfectly cold the other day and was great for about 45 seconds, then it went back to it's up and down RPM business. It's warm enough out now that it is not chokeing off at the low RPM swing, but it's close. I have another used AFM that is suposed to be off a running car on the way. In the very least I hope it works as well as what I have, as the adjusting screw is frozen in mine.
I'm assuming you can drill and yank the cap off the AFM's with the seal over the adjusting screw? Need to pick up an O2 sensor and sway bar bushings as well.
Ain't bad. Need's more power, but your well into illegal speeds before you can get out of 3rd as it is. The EDU is working again since I had the battery disconected, for now. It's showing 22mpg average as of tonights little drive. That thing flickers ocasionaly too, I need to hunt up another one. And buy some real gauges for cripes sake.
Interisting car indeed. I can't wait till next week when I have a non-cracked windshield and inspection sticker and can drive it daily.
posted by 71.53.101...
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