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Resistor pack Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Tue, 11 Apr 2006 08:00:25
In Reply to: Fan Speed Controller, Tyler, Tue, 11 Apr 2006 06:22:54 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
You've got the manual fan controller - a knob. The device we're talking about is just a resistor pack. Access is very simple - open the hood, and remove the horizontal plastic cover at the base of the windshield. From the driver's side (US cars), look at the big plastic barrel of the fan. You'll see an electrical harness plugged into the side. Pop this out, and the resistor pack comes right with it. It's just a plastic piece with coils of wire - those are the resistors.
As a note, the resistors usually don't fail. There is a little device in there that looks like a diode - a little metal cylinder with two wires. This is a thermal fuse. If it gets too hot, it pops. This opens up the resistor pack. That is usually all that is wrong. The good news is that a new fuse is $1. The bad news is that you'll need to mail order it, and most electrical supply houses have a $25 minimum order. If you do buy one, solder it in very carefully - use heat sinks on the leads - or it'll blow again.
Of course, one solution is to simply wire out the fuse - replace it with a piece of wire. Now, I can't recommend this method, but I do have to say it's worked fine for me since my thermal fuse blew about 5 years ago (Ooops - did I say that?) The resistor pack sits in the fan air flow to cool it. The way it's designed, it generates the most heat at the lowest fan setting. So running the fan at 1 is usually what blows the thermal fuse. I happen to think it's not really required, as a high load from the blower motor would be the most likely reason for a resistor overheat, and the 30 amp blower fuse is already running on the limit.
posted by 192.249....
, Tue, 11 Apr 2006 08:00:25 <-- Viewing This Message
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