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Re: Upper engine mounts Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Thu, 5 Oct 2006 12:36:21
In Reply to: Upper engine mounts, Clive, Wed, 4 Oct 2006 15:38:47 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
The bushing is an aluminum cylinder with the rubber bonded inside. That cylinder is pressed into the dogbone, and one into the piece mounted to the engine.
There are tools available to press the old bushing out. Eeuroparts was selling it for about $70 or so. The bushings are really pressed in there, so it takes a lot of force. You can cut them out - thread a hacksaw blade or jeweler's saw blade through the gap in the rubber, and saw *just* through the rubber and the bushing part of the metal. Don't saw into the mount. Cut two slots, and then push the pieces out. If you use one piece (Stock) bushings, they also need to be pressed in. It is a very tight fit, so it takes either a tool or a press. There are two-piece bushings available. I am under the impression they use plastic (urethane) instead of rubber. Sometimes this cause unpleasant vibration, sometimes not.
Having replaced bushings using the tool many times, I have two suggestions -
My favorite - use stock rubber bushings. Remove the dogbone, and remove the mount from the engine. You'll need to unbolt the alternator to do this, which means the serpentine belt has to come off. Take the dogbone and mount to an automotive machine shop, with new bushings, and ask them to press out the old bushings and press in the new ones. NOTE: The bushings DO have an orientation. Note how there are two gaps in the rubber, and a thin rubber connector. You want to orient the bushing on the dogbone so that the GAPS are front and back. You want to orient the bushing on the engine so that the gaps are also front and back (connector up and down). This way the bushing has the most movement when the engine moves forward and backwards.
The do-it-yourself method is to (1) buy the tool and press out the old bushings, press in new ones, or (2) the cheap approach, cut out the old bushings and use urethane two piece bushings. I don't like (1) because the tool has failed on me in the past. I don't like (2) because depending on the engine, you may end up with unpleasant vibration. You won't know until you try, but if it turns out bad, you need to re-do the mounts.
I've gotten old and crochety. Removing the alternator is a pain, but I've found it to be much less painful than dealing with bushing issues. Just my opinion.
posted by 192.249....
, Thu, 5 Oct 2006 12:36:21 <-- Viewing This Message
, Thu, 5 Oct 2006 20:46:04
, Thu, 5 Oct 2006 11:16:50
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