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Can be two separate problems
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Posted by Ari [Email] (#2847) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Ari) on Thu, 12 Oct 2006 05:49:52 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Strange electrical problem, Seattle Matt, Wed, 11 Oct 2006 11:35:41
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One thing I've learned from may years of troubleshooting, is that assuming one fault is causing all problems is a bad thing. Fix them one at a time - if other problems clean up, great. Otherwise you spend all your time trying to come up with Rube Goldberg scenarios that involve evaporating wire and cosmic rays.

The year of your car would be helpful. In '97, the fuse for the power seats when the engine is running is #7. There are also two sets of relays under each seat - one that enables the seat when the door is open, one when the door is closed but the key ON. If BOTH seats don't work when the car is ON, then it is unlikely both relays are bad in two different locations. I'd focus in on the fuse. More than checking to see if the fuse is good, see if it has power. Most blade-type fuses have two little open tabs on the back that allow you to probe with a voltmeter. With the meter ground lead, well, grounded, check BOTH tabs on the power seat fuses with the car ON. BOTH should show battery power. That's a good place to start.

If you majorly disrupted the Hot in Run power bus, the car wouldn't run. So the key is OK. I'd go back over anything you did in the fusebox/relay panel area. And use a voltmeter to measure things - if one end of a wire is floating free, it's easy to see - but if it has a bad connection, you can't see that by eye.

As to the horn, that's a different matter. The horn is not on a switched circuit. So again, I'd look for a different wire knocked loose or just connected poorly in the fusepanel.

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