1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
This was probably the worst job I've had to do on a Saab thus far Ray. I'll tell you where I went wrong. This was the 1993 CDET; the outer boot was shredded, and I bought the "new" outer CV, carrier bearing with mount, and the inner splined shaft that connects to the tranny, from the local junkyard for $50. Score. I pulled the inner fender plastic, unbolted the motor mount from the subframe, put the crane on the motor and started to lift the motor to unweight the whole assembly. Once I got it unweighted, I started unbolting it and found I had to get the alternator and power steering pump out of the way to navigate around between the motor and the fake firewall.
Once all of that garbage was out of the way, I unbolted the 3 bolts that hold the carrier to the block (17 & 18 above) and started to pry carrier off pin #15. Well look down to the lower left of where bolt 17 goes through and you'll see a hole. There is a pin in the block that goes into that hole, as well as a pin in the carrier (15) that goes into a hole in the block. Of course both were rusted and corroded so that it would barely budge.
Once I got it moving, I ran into another snag where I could only move it away from the block so much, because it was being held by the splined shaft (29). Kind of picture in your head how much lateral movement is allowed between a splined shaft and the output shaft when they are mated together 1 - 1.5". Not much. Finally I got pissed and pryed it enough to get the pins out of their respective holes and it came apart.
This is where I got hosed good. I decided to use the stock #29 splined shaft instead of the junkyard shaft. I lined everything up, pushed it on, tried to get the pins to line up again and they were off about 1/4". Tap tap with a hammer, nothing. Slug slug with a hammer, nothing. BANG BANG a few times, nothing. I finally found out that the combination of o-ring (#10), inner cup (#9) and splined shaft (#29) had to be exact. This combination was preventing the splined shaft from seating directly onto the inner cup. I used the splined shaft from the junkyard, gave it a quick seating-smash with the hammer and it slid into place, started the dowels back into their respective holes (AFTER CLEANING UP BOTH THE HOLES AND THE DOWELS BEFORE REINSTALL!!!), put the bolts back in and was finally done.
Moral of the story...make sure the splined shaft seats all the way onto the inner cup, make sure to clean very well the pins and holes, and unbolt the alternator and PS pump ahead of time. Whew.......
posted by 129.33....
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