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Re: Seat Heater Question Posted by Ari [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: Seat Heater Question, Colin in AK, Sun, 26 Nov 2006 11:35:26 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I'm assuming oldsaab meant that the driver's switch controls the passenger side. That was my first question. The controllers are identical, and you can swap the cabling in the instrument panel by accident if you pull both controllers and then not notice which goes where. They are not keyed.
The first thing I'd try is swapping the controllers. The controllers just pop out, although I find it easier to pop out the blanks below and pull the switches out with a little leverage. I also tie some string to the cables, to keep them from jumping back into the dash (as they like to do).
It's very possible that you do have two separate problems. A dead seat is pretty common, most likely a break in the heater element on the seat bottom, at the front outside. That's probably what's happening with you driver's seat.
On the passenger side, it is possible that the relay in the controller is stuck. The controller is some electrical circuitry and a relay. It measures the temperature of the seat (via a thermistor in the seat). If the seat is colder than the set temp, it closes a relay, and sends 12 volts to the seat. When the seat warms up enough, the relay opens. At the Off position, the relay should be open. But if the relay is stuck closed, you'll get heat all the time. This would be a problem in the controller. It could be the relay contacts are stuck closed, the circuit in the controller failed and is telling the relay to be closed all the time, or the selector switch got messed up and is set at high, no matter the switch position. That's why swapping the controller can test the passenger side.
If you're good with electronics, you can fix bad controllers. If you don't want to bother, any seat controller from any year 9000 (and some 900s) will fit and work. The advantage of the newer controllers is that the bulb can be replaced without soldering, but again, if you find a controller from a junkyard, it'll work.
posted by 192.249....
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