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Its tough, but doable... Posted by Daven [Email]  (#290) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Daven) on Mon, 2 Apr 2007 12:14:46
In Reply to: Help with turbocharger removal, Chaz, Mon, 2 Apr 2007 09:02:26 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I JUST finished replacing the T25 turbo on my brother's '92 9000 turbo, that marks my third turbo removal/refitting. I think the two setups are pretty similar even though you have a different turbo, a T3.
The first step is to give yourself enough room to work in there. A little extra work saves a lot of frustration. Remove fan assembly from the radiator. Romove the rubber air intake pipe and the plastic air filter box.
I can't remember whether only some 9000 T3 turbos are water & oil cooled or whether they all are for all years (some 900s aren't and some are). Regardless, you probably want to drain the radiator of all its coolant via the little [plastic?] plug on its bottom right (pass. side). Also, drain all the oil out and plan to do an oil change after you're done BUT BEFORE YOU START THE CAR AGAIN. This will save you quite a mess.
Remove the three nuts securing the exhaust downpipe/header pipe to the turbo. !!!!!Use a lot of PB or Liquid Wrench penetrating spray on all nuts and bolts throughout this whole process!!!!! Loosen the bolts that attach the thin metal pipes to the turbo. There may be two or three. If there is one on the bottom of the turbo, try to trace it to its other end and loosen that connection as well (you will be needing to pull the turbo down and away from the exhaust manifold when its ready to come off and you don't want to bend that metal pipe because it will be a bitch to bend back and reattach later).
There may be a bracket coming off the back of the turbo which is bolted to the engine block. If there is, remove that bolt.
If there is a small pipe coming off the bottom of the turbo which is connected to the engine block by a short rubber hose with clamps, loosen the clamp on the turbo side and slide it toward the other clamp. REMEMBER to insert this metal pipe on the new turbo back into the rubber hose before you tighten everything back up!!!
In response to your concern about getting to the back two turbo/manifold nuts, with all the extra crap out of the way it should be much easier now. You may have to contort your body a bit..I find that by straddling the front left corner of the car and tucking my right arm in behind the turbo, underneith the front/top of the engine, I can get a SHORT 13mm wrench on the back, left nut. With my left hand I help the right hand by guiding the wrench back and forth and making sure its still on the nut with one finger. I do the exact same thing on the back, right nut as well, same position, same procedure with my hand location, just lean further across the engine compartment (your back will be very sore after you're done!). After all nuts are off, drop the turbo and insert the new one.
Be careful when re-fastening the thin metal pipes to the turbo to line them up properly, possibly with a small mirror for the ones you can't see so well, otherwise you may THINK it's lined-up and you can strip the threads on the bolts or, even worse, cross-thread them and then it may be very hard to salvage that turbo because it will be constantly leaking from that connection point.
ALSO, try to get some copper washers to replace the old ones on the turbo if they look old and scarred. Any dealer should be able to source them for you. They're not essential but if you lose one of the old ones in this process, you'll be really pissed.
Good luck!
-Daven Johansen
posted by 68.173.2...
, Mon, 2 Apr 2007 12:14:46 <-- Viewing This Message, Mon, 2 Apr 2007 18:22:45, Mon, 2 Apr 2007 22:30:03
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