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Re: Questions about crank pulley replacement on a 1990 CD? Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Fri, 11 May 2007 05:45:44
In Reply to: Questions about crank pulley replacement on a 1990 CD?, Brian, Thu, 10 May 2007 16:58:49 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
30 mm sounds about right, but I've also seen 27mm. If you're going to need to buy a socket, I suggest that you actually grab a caliper and measure it.
The crank pulley is torqued to 140 ft-lbs. There is a ring on the back of the pulley that acts as a shutter wheel for the crank position sensor. Not only do I re-use the bolts from the old ring, I re-use the old ring. That way you KNOW it's the right one. And just to be safe, take the old pulley and new pulley and put them face down side by side, with the keyways lined up. Make sure that when you move the old ring to the new pulley, it is oriented the same way. I'm pretty sure the bolts are offset so you can't screw it up. But re-using the bolts and ring are fine - they don't get any wear or stress.
The oil pump bolts torque to 71 INCH-pounds. That's a whopping 4 and a half foot pounds. Not a lot. Most click-type torque wrenches don't go down that low. A cheap ($20) Pep-boys bending-beam type torque wrench is good for this and other low torque bolts. And a reason to buy another tool!
Since the torque is so low, the tightening pattern isn't super critical. But out of habit, I always tighten the bolts finger-tight, and then torque them in a rough cross pattern - tighten one, then tighten another on the far side. This isn't a cylinder head - the pattern isn't critical. I just wouldn't start at one end and tighten them around in a circle. Just about any other pattern would work.
posted by 192.249....
, Fri, 11 May 2007 05:45:44 <-- Viewing This Message
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