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Thought I'd share this. I parked up and waited in the car whilst my wife popped into a shop for a few minutes. It was a warm day so I opened the front windows while I waited. When she came back to the car I started the engine, OK, but couldn't close the windows! Then noticed the ABS warning light was on. Stopped the engine, checked a bunch of fuses, including those in the ABS relay box under the bonnet but all were OK. Re-started the engine and drove home, but noticed other things weren't working too, indicators for example.
We were due to go out so I had to secure the car, the windows were still open, before using the '97 instead. I did this by removing the window switch panel and jumping across the connector to the individual motors - I took a good live feed from the fusebox electric seats fuse (electric seats circuits are always 'hot'). I later realised that it would have been easier to simply remove the power windows fuse and link across from the power seat fuse location:- First test that you have the right circuits, I have a test lamp with small spade terminals that fit into the fuse sockets. Connect the lamp between the fuse positions for the power seats and power windows, you have got the right pins when the lamp only lights when you press on one of the power window switches (as if you were opening/closing the window), otherwise you have jumpered across to 'back-power' the rest of the circuits, but not the power windows. Note, the front windows are fused separately from the rear windows and sunroof. Now replace your test lamp with a fused jumper and you can close the windows in the normal way.
Now with car secured we were free to go on our way in the '97 to leave fixing the '94 for another day.
Looking at the wiring diagrams and the symptoms, it looked like the +54 bus was at fault. This is one of the switched circuits from the ignition switch and is only 'hot' in the 'run' position. The clue to this and not the 'ignition relay' that switches current to window, indicator, cruise etc. circuits was that the ABS was also affected. For those of you that have Daylight Running Lights these would be knocked out too because they are driven directly from the ignition switch.
So I popped off the steering column cowling (remove 4x torx 20? from lower half, unclip top and bottom sections and then wiggle off over ignition switch) and pulled off the ignition switch (2x 2mm hex - note red anti-tamper paint). Turn switch to run position (use your key or a screwdriver) and measure between pins marked 30 and 54 - should be short circuit, but mine was open circuit. I replaced the switch with another from a donor car and all was fine again :-) Took less than half an hour to do.
If you ever have to do this you may as well tighten the clamp for the adjustable steering column (17mm I think) (didn't apply to me as my '94 doesn't have adjustable steering column, but I will tighten the clamp on my '97 now that I know how easy it is to get to).
AndyH
'94 9000 CDE
'97 9000 CSE
posted by 87.113.71...
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