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Re: Morning start stalling when trying to drive(AMM)??? Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Mon, 3 Dec 2007 05:57:23
In Reply to: Morning start stalling when trying to drive(AMM)???, Chet, Sun, 2 Dec 2007 16:24:19 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Start-up issues can be due to a bad temperature sensor, vacuum lines, and possibly AMM. In my experience, AMM problems don't go away when the car warms up. TCS models have the same AMMs as non-TCS cars - in fact, all the parts are the same (FPR, AMM, injectors) except for different control modules, and interestingly, the coolant temperature sensor. I'm not sure what the difference is between a TCS and non-TCS temp sensor - the manual shows them having the same resistance characteristics.
Do you get a Check Engine Light? Does the CEL work? Codes would be a good start, but you don't always get them.
I know you replaced all the hoses - did you have the problem prior to replacement? If not, check your work. Even so, check your work. Places to check would be the charcoal canister - since it's stuffed into the right front fender, it can be hard to see. Pop out the RF turn signal assembly and look in. Make sure the one-way valve from the valve cover to the throttle body is still indeed one-way, and in the direction that air flows TO the throttle body. Make sure the gasket on the dipstick seals properly (another place for air leaking).
My money would be first on the Temp sensor - this is the one under the intake manifold, not on the side of the block by the thermostat. If it is telling the car that the car is warm when it isn't, you'll have poor running when cold. At room temperature (68F) the sensor should read 2600 ohms, +/- 7%. At 32F, it should be 5800 ohms (+/- 10%). If the car is cold but the sensor is reading a low resistance (like 300 or 400 ohms), the sensor is bad.
Next, I'd suspect the IAC valve. It may be sticky, and need the vibration and warmth of the engine to get it moving.
If the engine comes off idle just fine after a minute or two, it probably isn't the AMM. It might be some flaky issue with corrosion, but that's a reach. I wouldn't rule the AMM out, I'd just start my look elsewhere.
Of course, check all hoses again. Also, how do the spark plugs look? Do you see signs of either rich or lean running? If you're running too rich (leaky FPR for example), you'll be over-rich when the engine is cold and at low revs (like when backing out), which can cause stalling. Once the engine warms up and you open the throttle a bit, you'll be merely running rich, which wastes gas but the engine runs just fine. So check those plugs.
posted by 192.249....
, Mon, 3 Dec 2007 05:57:23 <-- Viewing This Message
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