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Couldn't get through on Lyle's email, so I'll post here :
It should be an easy fix for this problem - the starter solenoid isn't getting sufficient voltage to actuate. The solution is to use the starter solenoid wire to trigger a relay, providing +12Vdc to the starter solenoid from the power distribution block at the rear of the battery.
If you look at the starter solenoid, you'll see a yellow wire - it runs behind a metal channel, and then up a flex tube to a fitting on the false firewall. You can disconnect the wire at the starter solenoid, then open the fittings at the top and bottom of the flex tube to access the wire. I drilled a small hole through the side of upper fitting, and ran the wire through a grommet - you can see it at the bottom center of the P1010089 file. The relay is a Hella 87108 - it has an integral 15 amp fuse. On my 95 Aero, it mounts between the relay/fuse box and the firewall fitting - there was an unused mounting hole (NO TCS).
To wire the relay, the yellow wire goes to pin 86. You can run the +12Vdc from the power distribution block behind the battery to pin 30. The new wire to the starter solenoid goes to pin 87 (either pin), and the ground wire goes to pin 85. There's a good chassis ground just to the left of the battery on the fender wall, or underneath the aquarium cover. For the +12Vdc wires, I used 10 gauge marine wire - the tinned conductors eliminate any corrosion. I also crimp and solder the terminals, then use heatshrink to seal the connection. The original yellow wire to the solenoid had corrosion and oxidation on the conductors for two feet up the wire - that'll cause a severe voltage drop.
The link for Townsend's is http://townsendimports.com - there's a link to the article below. The relay I obtained from Susquehanna Motorsports (http://www.rallylights.com). They also have a lot of information on the site about wiring up equipment on your car .....
Any questions, email me .......
Larry Maier
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