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Slightly different method Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Tue, 8 Jan 2008 10:08:08
In Reply to: Looking for info (or DIY) on replacing front rotors, Sandro Seminara, Tue, 8 Jan 2008 08:11:41 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Remove the ABS pump fuse. Start the car, and pump the brake pedal a dozen or so times. Shut off the car and replace the fuse. Why? If you are replacing the pads (as you should), you'll be pushing the pistons back in, and that displaces brake fluid, filling the reservoir. What this trick just did was to empty the remaining fluid out of the accumulator. This way you have an accurate view of the brake fluid level. This will make sense later on.
Jack up and support with jack stands. Remove tire. I like doing one wheel at a time.
The rotor is held on with a screw (torx or allen head, depends) and a locating pin. See if you can remove the screw. Sometimes they loosen easily, other times they strip out. So make sure the driver fits perfectly, make sure you press in hard to keep it seated, and it it starts to give you trouble, apply some pentrating oil. Avoid stripping out the screw head at all costs. If you do, drill it out. Also loosen the locating pin. Usually not as big a deal, because you can get a good wrench on it. But don't round it, either.
I actually make sure I can loosen (but not remove yet) the screw and locating pins on both wheels before I go any further. I don't want to be successful on one side, but fail miserably on the other and then have mis-matched rotors/brake pads. If I fail on one (screw strips, etc), I can fold my tent and come back to it later with the right tools.
Assume you can loosen the screw and retaining pin. Now, remove the caliper just like changing brake pads. Pop out the anti-rattle spring. Pop the plastic caps off the caliper retaining screws on the back, and using an allen (7mm?) back the screws out. There are no pins to knock out as Rod mentions - those are the older brakes. Pry apart the brake pads a little to give you room, then remove the caliper. I keep some twine tied up to the suspension springs to tie the rotor up with - don't let it hang on the brake line. Use a C-clamp or a very big pliers to carefully press the piston back into the caliper - you should be installing new pads. Monitor the brake fluid level - don't let it overflow the reservoir - if it gets close, suction some out with a turkey baster.
Once the piston is pushed back in, hang it up. Remove the two 19 mm bolts that hold the carrier to the hub. They will be hard to get moving - they should have some Locktite on them. Remove the carrier.
Now, remove the rotor screw and pin, and the rotor will come right off. Reinstall the new rotor, with the screw and pin (each liberally gooped with anti-sieze). Don't overtighten - they aren't there for strength, just to keep the rotor from falling off when the lug bolts and carrier aren't in place.
Reinstall the carrier with the two 19mm bolts. I like to use Loctite - not the red, but the removable Blue. Torque to 66 ft-lbs (90 nm).
Pop the new pads into the caliper (note the inside one has the springs), slip onto the carrier. Put a little grease on the pins and reinstall. Tighten until they seat. Replace the plastic caps. Reinstall the anti-rattle spring. Replace tire.
You're done.
posted by 192.249....
, Wed, 9 Jan 2008 08:40:52, Tue, 8 Jan 2008 13:37:19, Tue, 8 Jan 2008 10:08:08 <-- Viewing This Message
, Tue, 8 Jan 2008 09:20:26
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