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I finally popped off the door panel (very strong spring clips on top edge sheet metal).
And this is what I found, why my rear door buttons pull loosely up and down:
They use plastic pins with spring ears that latch into the door, and latch thru the lock pivots, at two points in a long linkage that runs from the button across top of door to another pivot, then down to latchworks.
One of those pins was popped out of the door, the other was sheared off where it would go into the door.
Granted someone plainly kept pulling when the lock didn't want the button pulled up, or pushed when it wouldn't go down.
But I can't wait for an order to arrive or pay the price for those pins, especially knowing how vulnerable they are to breaking and making me go back in.
So here's what I'm gonna do:
I bought two 1/4-20x1/2" socket head cap screws (allen screws) for each door. Also, for each, a single washer (used 3/16" washers that just fit on a 1/4-20 screw) and a single "thin body" nylon insert nut each.
I'll reach up inside door and poke the allen screw out the pivot hole, slip on the washer, put on the pivot (bell crank is I think the mechanical engineer's term) and then the nylon-insert nut, hold an allen wrench into the head inside the door, and tighten the nut just to a good easy swivel with no play. They should last forever. Maybe another weak point will let go, but so what?
"Thin body" insert nuts so the total height will be less and so nylon is sure to make good contact with the threads. Maybe standard insert nuts will work, same price.
If the bolts won't go thru the pivot holes I'll drill them out. If they're too loose it won't be by enough to matter.
I also plan to neuter or remove the spring clips in top lip of inner door panel. What a pain to pop that off - - there's no need for them. Gravity plus six screws and two pop-on pins is enough locating and holding power and to spare.
If trouble brews again and I gotta go back in there I want it easy.
posted by 70.105.252...
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