1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Whycatone:
My '96 had rear door latch works so frozen up that neither the door buttons nor the lock actuators could make the lock-unlock work.
It had plainly gone on a long time. The door lock buttons moved up and down loosely without doing anything - - the linkagepivot points had popped out of the door or were busted.
You need to pull the door apart to get inside and fix this.
First is remove the inner panel:
Pry window switch panel out via the little notch at one end, unplug it and set aside. Undo screw into courtesy light and pull its rear end out, unhook it from door panel and unplug it.
Pry two rubbery plugs out of inner door pull handle, and unscrew Torx screws way down inside.
Pry two plastic caps off the screws at ends of the door pocket, and remove those long Torx head screws.
Remove Torx screw in space where courtesy light was, down in, attaching other end of metal clip that the light was screwed into.
Remove Torx screw and clip inside black panel around inside atch handle. Remove the black surround panel by opening the latch handle out all the way, pulling panel out at bottom, and unhooking top edge by kind of twisting it and pulling down.
Use an upholstery tool or carpenters pry bar to pop the door panel loose at its rear bottom up from edge a bit, where there's a plastic prong fastener.
Plug window switch back on and with ignition on, lower window all the way down as panel comes off easier. (DEFINITELY lower it down before reinstalling panel.)
Then with panel bottom pulled out some, hit it a few hard pops with your hand, straight upward, starting at front. This should release the top edge, which fits over the top of the door sheet metal along the window, and is held on by four strong spring steel clips. Keep whapping away and it will come off. Lift it straight up over the door lock button. Unplug the window switch again and push its connector in thru the door panel, unplug the electric connector to the door vent fan.
(You can slide those four spring clips all the way to the front or back end of the track they are in, and they'll drop out and you can heave them. Not needed and make getting panel off and on a pain.)
Now to the latch works. Peel the inner door lining plastic sheet off at the rear top corner, using a single edge razor blade to cut through the gooey black rubber sealant that glues it to door.
You should be able to look in and just see parts of the latch works. You might be able to free the locking function up enough using spray lube like WD40. Keep working things thru their paces as you lube, working the lube in and freeing up corrosion.
But I'm a big fan of removing the entire latch works from the door and lubing thoroughly. I did a how-to on this recently; do a search or look under my name for More Posts and scroll down. If you do this it's a big job with lots of little points to look out for.
Also lube the various swivel points on the linkage to the lock button. Two weak points, black plastic prong things that are pivots. Can pop out and if so just replug them into door, but also they can break and need replacing or faking up a substitute using 1/4-20 thread bolts.
Putting panel back on, needs window down all the way so the top edge can get in close to glass and hook onto door sheet metal. You have to thread the lock button up through at the same time.
posted by 71.241.199...
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