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Just to clarify. Saabnutt, unless I misunderstand your post, you're thinking the turbo housing could stay home in the car while just the turbo "cartridge" inside gets removed/serviced/replaced? Unfortunately that's not the case. One would still have to remove the entire turbo unit, housing and all, and then do whatever disassembly needed on the bench once removed. But I am probably misunderstanding you.
Just from the description here, I think this is a case of a turbo packing it in. Bearings have bitten the dust, possible contact of impeller and turbo housing. Toast.
It's very rare to find a turbo that can be rebuilt by the mere mortal, despite many opinions to the contrary. So if the turbo is shot, I recommend replacing it with a professionally rebuilt unit or else a good used one from a reputable source.
A dead hooter valve will not necessarily affect boost. What it will normally do to advertise its failure is cause the car to stall upon deceleration.
Similarly, if the BPC is faulty or the wastegate rod has fallen off, it won't affect the noise the turbo makes.
But Jeffe, before you blame the turbo, make sure you eliminate those possibilities first. So I would do the following:
1. Check that the wastegate rod hasn't fallen off the turbo.
2. Remove intake tubing and check the turbo compressor wheel for binding, side-to-side, and lengthwise play. If you find more than a mm of lengthwise play and virtually any side-to-side play, time for a new turbo.
2. Verify that the BPC valve is hooked up and working properly
3. Check for a dead hooter valve (not likely your culprit).
I'm at work so can't go into more detail, but search the archives for a wealth of info on how to carry out these inspections.
If a replacement turbo is required, I think you should be able to find a good rebuilt one for around $500, and you may get lucky in the online realm and find a good used one for less.
posted by 68.195.246...
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