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Re: Is my tensioner toast? Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Tue, 18 Nov 2008 04:05:36
In Reply to: Is my tensioner toast?, techlectic, Mon, 17 Nov 2008 19:25:57 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
To second Saabnutt:
The only tool I use to compress the tensioner is a nice, big breaker bar. OK, it' an 18 incher, not that big. Put the socket on the TENSIONER PULLEY BOLT nice and securely, and press SLOWLY and firmly counterclockwise. From the engine compartment, above the engine, that is pressing towards the firewall.
Put a nice firm pressure on the tensioner, but don't throw your body weight into it. The tensioner has a damper. A damper resists moving fast, but is fine with moving slow. So apply pressure until you feel a decent resistance - maybe 10-15 pounds worth, and keep applying the pressure. After a few seconds, you'll feel the damper start to compress. Just keep up the pressure and it'll slowly compress. I've seen it take 20-30 seconds to compress the damper with moderate force. Don't be in a rush.
OK, so is your tensioner toast? First, if it is still providing resistance, it's probably OK. In your position, I'd install the belt and look. Compress the tensioner (as above) and install the belt. Make sure it sits right in the middle of the tensioner pulley - not off to one side. If it is off to one side, it might be a sign the tensioner was damaged. Start the engine - the belt should be running right on the pulley - again, not off to one side.
As to damping - it is normal for the tensioner pulley to 'jiggle' about 1/8 inch as the engine runs. Make sure the AC is on. Watch the tensioner pulley. It should be jiggling a little, and when the compressor kicks in, the tensioner pulley should move backwards a little bit, and resume jiggling at the new location. When the compressor drops out, it'll move forward again. When the tensioner pulley moves, it should move quickly to the new position with little or no overshoot. If it moves back and forth a lot before it settles down, then the damper is shot.
So - good tensioner - belt rides on the pulley, no part of the belt off the pulley; and a small amount of jiggle is OK, but not large bouncing, especially with load changes (AC kicks in or out).
If you're not sure, replace it. A bad tensioner will throw the belt. Best case is you notice the ALT light, loss of power steering, and shut down the car. Now all you need is a tow. The belt will probably be damaged. Worst case, you're stuck in the high speed lane and you need to muscle the car to the side, and since the water pump isn't turning, you risk overheating the engine. And chew up the belt. That whole spectrum of failures is pretty expensive and a pain. So put it back together, but look at it with a jaundiced eye.
posted by 76.200.21...
, Tue, 18 Nov 2008 04:05:36 <-- Viewing This Message
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