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Re: Fuse 16 (locks and interior lights) killing battery? Posted by Ari [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: Fuse 16 (locks and interior lights) killing battery?, '93 Aero, Wed, 17 Dec 2008 08:11:14 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
The best way to troubleshoot is with a current meter. A lot depends on what meter you can get your hands on.
The absolutely best way is to pull fuse 16. Get a meter and a jumper wire. Jumper across the socket in fuse 16. The interior lights should come on for a bit. Set the meter to measure current, and put the leads into the sockets. The meter will read zero because the leads are still shorted by the jumper. Wait a minute, and them remove the jumper. See the current you're pulling. Anything less than about 35 milliamps (0.035 A) is normal and acceptable.
Why all the pain with a jumper? When the circuit is first made, the circuit pulls an amp or two - capacitors charge up, interior lights come on, etc. This might blow the fuse in the meter. With the jumper in place, the jumper takes that current. After a minute the current has dropped down to normal. Yes, it takes a few extra hands.
Other things to consider - the trunk light is on that circut. Are you sure the trunk light isn't on?
Also - a blown fuse 16 is pretty common. It's a little undersized for the peak loads of the central locking - all it takes is a sticky actuator, and the fuse blows. It may have nothing to do with your battery drain. Question 1 - when the car is running, what voltage does the EDU read? It should be above 13.0 volts with no loads (fan low, no defroster) and at least in the mid 13's when the engine is at speed. That's what I'd expect from a fresh alternator. Does the battery look new? Are you sure the battery isn't bad? A battery that has gone flat a few times is permanently damaged - it won't hold a charge. You can charge it up just fine, but it loses charge just sitting there.
Or do this - leave the fuse out, and see if the battery is still dead in 3 days.
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