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Hello everyone,
This is a long post... sorry
the bottom line is, I want to get rid of the poorly designed clutch master mounting system of the 88 9000 turbo I have, and somehow upgrade it to a 1990 or later system, where the master cyl is down by the pedal...
IS THIS POSSIBLE??
I love my 88 9000 turbo, but the clutch has serious issues.
I have a Sachs pressure plate, Dual friction clutch disc... brand new throwout bearing... as well as
I've replaced the slave cyl, clutch hoses, and rebuilt the master cyl ( which i believe is in good working condition...but read on...)
and the clutch will only fully disengage way way down at the floor, during the last 1/4 inch of travel.
It will consistently only operate down at the last 1/4 inch of pedal travel, NO MATTER HOW MANY TIMES I POWER BLEED IT, with the bleed methods recommended on quasimotors site, using a one man bleeder i bought from eeuroparts.
Bleeding it got it to behave better, and by better I mean at least i can stomp it all the way down and it will consistently open, where as before it was kind of hit or miss...
(the pedal feels firm... everytime i bled it it got firmer, it returns on it's own, it does NOT stick to the floor... however the action of the clutch is still off)
All of this lead me to look at the clutch pedal itself, which is still in good shape, NOT tear dropped or worn in any way...
when I looked at the master cylinder closely when my friend was stomping the pedal for me, i noticed something...
It is moving up and down about 1/4-1/2 inch when pressure is applied to the pedal. It's moving where it mounts to the car.
The previous owner had apparently welded additional support to this area which had rusted to the point of allowing the master to move freely in it's mounted position.
It's not moving a lot, mind you, and it is next to impossible to move the master around by the force of your hands alone... but still you can blatantly see the top of the master itself rise up and down when pedal force is there.
NOW...
i rebuilt the master myself, and it is quite possible i made a mistake... either in the direction that one of the seals went it... or... what.. i don't know... but i won't rule out human error...
there is good pedal pressure FEEL though... the pedal FEELS firm, but...
when i'm at a light, in first gear, with the clutch pushed all the way to the floor, and i start to let the pedal out slowly... with my other foot off the brake...
the car will start to try and move IMMEDIATELY when clutch pressure is released... i mean right away, like within 1/4 inch of me releasing the pedal
This poor operation of the clutch has caused some strange shifting issues too, grinding into gears and such...
ro remedy it for now, i try to shift out of a gear, go into neutral, release clutch, then press clutch again, and shift into the next gear... this avoids grinding...
car is a daily driver... can't stop driving it... i'm at my wits end...
the only other thing i can think of is... attempting to re-weld the master in place, which didn't work the first time apparently... the area seems solid as can be... just bad design...
or possibly removing the master to replace with a BRAND NEW one will not fix the fact that the master mounting location is severely compromised... so that would be $200 poorly spent IMHO...
the clutch hose seems to move a bit when the pedal is pressed down, the rubber part seeming to flex under the pressure, they do not make a stainless hose for this year, which is another reason to upgrade, and i know you can make your own, but, i'm not sure if it will solve the problem, the rubber hose is brand new..
and... i suppose i could custom fabricate a bracket that would stop the master from being able to travel up when the clutch is pressed in...
in any case...
suggestions?
anyone have similar experiences?
can i please upgrade to the later style master cyl???
HELP
-gavin
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