1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
I'm by no means an expert, but here are just a few things I've noticed over the years.
1. Buy a good quality soldering iron. I like the pen-type ones that have the interchangeable tips. If you only spend $20 on a soldering iron, then you will get a $20 solder job (and you'll probably destroy the circuit board.
2. Choose your wattage wisely. You can buy expensive soldering stations that allow you to control the heat range of the tip, but there's no point unless you are a professional electrician. I have two separate irons, a 15W and a 30W. I use a 30W with a pen tip for most work. It's hot enough to melt most solders, but it's not so hot that it will melt the board and surrounding connections (if you're careful). The 15W is for fine electrical work.
3. Use the right solder. For most jobs, 60/40 (60% tin, 40% lead) is perfect. Most places carry rosin core solder if you want an alternative to lead. However, I don't use the rosin solder because it doesn't mix with other solders very well. Plus I'm not going to be handling the circuit board when I'm done with it, so there's no risk of lead poisoning. Read the package if you're not sure. Most solders say what they're used for right on the package. I also recommend thin solder wire. If you use too thick of wire, it can be hard to control, it tends to melt slower, and it can form large blobs that can flow into other joints.
4. Tin the tip. Tinning involves melting a layer of solder directly onto the tip. This helps create good, even heat transfer. Once you cover the tip with a layer of solder, gently wipe the tip on a damp sponge. This will remove the excess flux from the tip. It's good practice to tin the tip and wipe it on the sponge between joints. If you don't tin the tip regularly, you can end up with cool spots. This is especially true if the tip is pitted from lots of use. Which brings me to the next point...
5. Replace the tip if it shows signs of pitting. Flux is highly corrosive, and it will damage the tip over time. The pits will create cool spots that won't melt solder very well.
6. Clean the tip REGULARLY! As I said above, use the damp sponge often. Not only does it clean the excess flux from the tip, but it also removes any contaminants that may be transferred from the old joint.
7. Don't heat the joint for too long. You want to place the tip in the center of the joint, not on the board. As soon as the joint melts, gently dab the new solder as close to the iron tip as possible, and quickly remove the tip. A successful joint will look bright and smooth! If the board starts to discolor or the joint won't melt, remove the iron, re-tin the tip, let the joint cool and try it again. You can damage the board if you leave the iron on the joint too long.
8. Use a magnifying glass. It's easy to miss cracks and bad joints without one.
9. Don't move the joint until it's completely cool. You can end up with cracks, or the joint could separate from the board.
10. Clean the joint. Once you have a good joint, and it's cool enough, wipe the new joint with some rubbing alcohol on a q-tip. Excess flux on the joint can cause it to fail later on.
I think that's about it. I'll post some more tips if I can remember any.
posted by 67.185.195...
, Sat, 6 Mar 2010 14:36:25
, Wed, 13 Jan 2010 18:54:34, Sun, 17 Jan 2010 10:07:30, Sun, 17 Jan 2010 11:40:58
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
