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Re: voltage at rear door lock?
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Posted by SRS900S [Email] (more from SRS900S) on Thu, 18 Mar 2010 14:20:26 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: voltage at rear door lock?, Ken Fisher, Tue, 16 Mar 2010 21:33:09
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I'm not convinced yet that the problem is with the actuator. I have continuity between the 2 wires at the connector inside the door, after unplugging the actuator. I can't figure a scenario where this would happen unless there was a short somewhere- if there's 2 wires, shouldn't there be 2 separate paths back to the connector for the ECU? The Haynes wiring diagram shows all the actuators connected in parallel. I'd like to test the actuator on another door but I cut my finger this morning so my dexterity is somewhat limited until the stitches come out, so I'm trying to troubleshoot by eliminating the ECU and/or wiring as the fault.

I have read that the ECU's are prone to failure so I have found and removed the ECU for the locks with the thought that maybe it's got a bad solder inside which might account for the continuity, but I still have continuity inside the door with the ECU removed.

Does anyone know which way the wires run from behind the B-pillar trim panel: do they go under the driver's door sill, through the roof, or some other way?

Not that it is an indicator of anything, but I am able to operate the power window from both the door and the center console, and the courtesy light turns on with the door open.

Thanks for any ideas

posted by 72.231.14...

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