1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
this is a great question because the jack supports made for the 9000 jack wont take well to much other than the OEM jack, or they'll bend unless you are very very careful. I've seen many a car at the junkyard with big dents under the area, rust, holes, etc.
even the previous owner(s) on my aero did a number on them.
The manual tells me NOT to jack on any suspension point, but I pretty much always jack the front end up under the control arm where it meets the frame, steering clear of any rubber. I also take extra time to make sure I'm lined up under the round protrusion. not to highjack (pun!) this thread but if thats horrible to do let me know.I've not seen any negative outcome yet.
once its up, I'm on to jack stands at the stock jack points made for the jack, very carefully. I use one, two if needed hydraulic jacks to do this. and sometimes use a channel lock to have better control over the lowering of the car.
So its an issue for me as well, and I've been wondering what to do.
I was going to make my own ramps, properly, to counter the car being too low for standard ramps. so I'm happy to hear about the Rhino ramps!
I have a big orange 2 ton harbor freight jack that gets me high enough to get the car on to large size jack stands-made for trucks.
I also always use wheel blocks/chocks designed for the job. in my youth I'd throw any ol brick or log behind the wheel. Harbor freight also had some big black rubber wheel chocks and they work nice. I also have a pair of the metal fold out type that have a rubber grip for the bottom where they meet the ground.
I've also used a cut to length piece of 4"x4" lumber, under the jack pad to get me 4 inches higher, but this is dangerous,and kind of stupid. I only do that when I absolutely have to.
I'm building a carport, and eventually closing it in, to get a lift.
I love my car to pieces, but for it to perform as intended, I do find myself tinkering a bit, which I love. So long haul its worth it.
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