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Moving the false bulkhead out of your way Posted by sam96CS [Email]  (#852) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from sam96CS) on Wed, 15 Jan 2014 16:50:10
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Usually the false bulkhead is mentioned briefly in the context of some other job such as replacing the heater core. Here I'm posting a more detailed description of the false bulkhead and the steps for moving it out of your way on a '96 9000.
DESCRIPTION
The false bulkhead is black plastic on the back side (facing the cabin), and it has black sound deadening material attached to its front side. It is about 27" long at the top, 23" long at the bottom and 8" tall. It is black, and so is everything around it. It is not easy to recognize its boundaries if you don't know where to look. There is a photo of a false bulkhead at a Fix My Saab article about heater core removal. On top of the false bulkhead (actually fitted onto the false bulkhead's top edge) is a piece of weatherstripping that's about as long as the aquarium cover. On late model 9000s there's a large wiring harness that passes through the right side (US driver's side) of the false bulkhead. Behind the false bulkhead this mass of wires forks into two branches, the larger one to the ECU and the smaller one to a power junction made of gray plastic. The false bulkhead lifts straight up for removal.
REMOVAL
Actually this describes moving the false bulkhead out of the way enough to make the contents of the aquarium accessible. You just want to make it free enough to lift it up and lay it on top of the intake manifold. The order of the steps below does not need to be followed strictly. It will help to read everything before starting.
1. (optional) I put the car on ramps to make the work more comfortable.
2. Disconnect the battery's negative terminal if you have a late model 9000 with a big wire harness passing through the false bulkhead. This must be done before you disconnect the ECU's harness and a power junction at Steps 7 and 8 below. Your ECU will have some relearning to do later. If your Saab is a '96 or later model all of the OBD2 monitors will have to be returned to ready mode and all OBD2 diagnostic code information (if any) will be lost. In other words, if you're due for inspection, then pass inspection before you remove the false bulkhead.
3. Remove the aquarium cover. It is secured by one torx screw and seven 8 mm bolts. In the process you have to disconnect the windshield washer hose, so don't forget to reconnect the hose when you re-install the aquarium cover.
4. Remove the weatherstripping that's on top of the false bulkhead. It lifts straight up. Remember its orientation.
5. Unbolt the MAP sensor from the false bulkhead (2 torx screws). Or you can leave the MAP sensor connected and disconnect its vacuum hose and electrical connector.
6. Remove the two 8 mm bolts that secure the each end of the false bulkhead. These are the only bolts that hold the false bulkhead. One bolt is located between the torque arm (upper engine mount) and the shiny A/C pipe on the passenger side of US cars. The other bolt is located just to the left of the antilock relay box when viewed from the front of the car.
7. Disconnect the ECU harness. To do this I disconnected a ground strap at the ECU (torx screw), lifted out the ECU (it is retained by two metal tabs that you can move by hand) and released the ECU harness by pulling the harness lever. However, keep the ECU attached to the ground strap if you're concerned about static electricity.
8. Disconnect the gray colored power junction located to the left of the ECU. There is an 8 mm bolt located at the top of the power junction that you remove first. Then you pull the harness lever to disconnect the harness.
9. Pull the false bulkhead straight up. A firm vertical pull at each end will be needed if it feels stuck. Now you can lift up the false bulkhead and lay the false bulkhead and the two disconnected wire harnesses on top of the intake manifold. The aquarium's contents are now easier to reach.
, Wed, 15 Jan 2014 16:50:10 <-- Viewing This Message
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