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Re: What are some signs of failing motor mounts?
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Posted by Ari [Email] (#2847) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Ari) on Wed, 14 Feb 2001 16:06:22 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: What are some signs of failing motor mounts?, Tim, Wed, 14 Feb 2001 15:47:22
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Questions back to front-
I recommend using the rubber (hydraulic) versus the solid mounts. The solid mounts can transmit extra vibration - it depends on the individual car and the individual engine. But unless you are doing lots of speed-shifting, spend the extra couple of bucks and buy the hydraulic ones.

You can do the job yourself with a reasonable set of tools and patience. A floor jack, some adjustable jack stands, and a few 2x4's help. If things go well, assume about 3 hours. The things that can take longer is if you decide to do additional maintenance while you're in there, since the entire accessory side of the engine is exposed - belts, main seal, alternator, water pump, etc. Access is very easy - jack up and support the RF of the car, remove the tire and plastic inner fender liner - that should be about 20 minutes. Both townsend and Quasi have nice motor mount writeups.

Lastly - how do you know they're going? Increased vibration, hard shifts, and seeing the shifter move in manual tranny cars. If you have an automatic, open the hood, and hop back into the driver's seat - you should be able to see the top of the engine from between the bottom of the hood and the top of the dash. With the engine running, brake set, foot firmly on the brake, just shift from Park to Reverse to Drive. If the top of the engine moves abruptly more than about 1/2-3/4 inch, the mounts are tired. Also, shine a flashlight down the belt end of the engine and look at the forward (right hand) mount. If you see any cracking in the rubber, then the mount is probably shot.
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